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#1 |
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Well what a great start to the weekend. Got the bike booked in for a MOT at 8 this morning. Get the the MOT done and passed wooohoooo.
Ridding home which is only mile and a half. Going along in 3rd gear take my hand off the throttle to move the mirro and the bike heavily slows as if I had the rear and front brake on. I was slowing to turn left. Put the bike into 1st gear as the bend is like a right angle. Came around the bend sat up straight out the power on. Next thing I know rear has locked front has high sided and I'm slamming into the ground. Bike slides 3 - 4 meters down the road. Run over to it, still running so hit the kill switch. Pick her up and role it to the side of the road. Big puddle of oil in the road and a bolt. Plus broken bits of plastic ![]() Look at the bike oil is dripping out from the front sprocket cover. And the bolt on the floor goes into the top of sprocket cover. Go get the van from home to get the bike. Once home start the bike starts fine and no more oil seems to be leaking. But I have not had a real good look over it yet. No real damage to the bike. Bar end lever and bobbins have taken the most of it. What dose the org think has happend to make the rear lock and slid the bike down the road.
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#2 |
Noisy Git
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Rear torque arm bolt rattled loose, caliper spun round and jammed?
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#3 |
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I had similar last year on my pointy. I was lucky enough to get the foot down to save the bike, but went 180 degrees and ended up facing back the way I'd come. The road was wet and greasy. I later found that, on the rear brake pad, the friction material had come away from the metal backing and was floating inside the caliper. I like to think this was the "reason" it happened, and that because I've replaced the faulty pads, have confidence that it won't happen again. I hope you get a "reason" too.
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#4 | |
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So your bike was not fully warmed up and you let go of the throttle at low speed in third. Did the slow down feel like more than the engine braking you would normally expect? Did it continue when you de-clutched to change down? And if you were moving at more than a snails pace why select first and did you raise the revs to match your road speed before letting in the clutch? At first read it sounds like your engine dictating your rear wheel speed which was too low for your road speed causing the lockup.
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#5 |
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As long as no one mucked about with something during the mot! glad your ok.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#6 |
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Had a look over the bike this morning. Put it up on the paddock stand. The rear wheel moves fine easy as pie chain and rear cailper all seem fine.
There is no more oil leaking out. But after removing the sprocket cover it is covered in oil. Do you think I have damaged the seal behind the front sprocket ?? Also dose the top bolt of the sprocket cover go into engine. I mean if you left it out would oil come out ?? Put the front end up in the air. The front wheel was locked solid. Removed the left hand side cailper to find the seal had come lose on one of the pistons. With the right cailper still on the wheel moves fine ![]() So the reason why she slammed me to the ground is a front wheel lock up due to the cailper locking up. My next problem is to find out if the oil was leaking because she was on her side or because something has broken.
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#7 | |
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Mot inpection should have picked something faulty with the front end surely? |
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#8 |
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They would of noticed a 'grabbing' front caliper on the roller brake test surely? As the needle on the dial of the tester would of stayed lifted instead of dropping to 0 when the brakes were released...
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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Makes you wonder about the reliability of some garages now days!
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