Shock linkage bolt replacement? - SV650.org

prisspringle · 11-08-14, 06:50 PM

hi guys,

i've just started to change the rear shock on my k3, sadly it looks like the bolts are rusted solid, apart from the top shock bolt and i can't get to the lower shock bolt, so i looks like i'll have to drill the heads off.

My question is do i have to get the bolts from suzuki or can i pop to a nice bolt and nut supplier and does anyone have the sizes?

Would it be a good idea to change the seals and bearing while i'm at it as well the bike has done 36,000 miles now and i can't see it being changed anywhere in it history ?

cheers chris

muzikill · 11-08-14, 06:53 PM

Its just a bolt and a 'lock'nut. You gonna have to cut it anyways. If you cant source one elsewhere then oem is the backup plan.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Jayneflakes · 11-08-14, 06:57 PM

Eek, I have this joy to do in the next couple of weeks, so am most interested in the replies. To my mind, such bolts are specially made and are of a particular grade of strong steel, so should be replaced with the same, so bolts from Suzuki it would be. However, I am happy to be corrected if I am wrong, before I do this to my bike!

Luckily for me I have a Carol and she can fix anything I have broken by bad spannering, all I have to do is provide cups of tea and the occasional biscuit!

maviczap · 11-08-14, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayneflakes

Eek, I have this joy to do in the next couple of weeks, so am most interested in the replies. To my mind, such bolts are specially made and are of a particular grade of strong steel, so should be replaced with the same, so bolts from Suzuki it would be. However, I am happy to be corrected if I am wrong, before I do this to my bike!

No I agree, get the proper OEM hi tensile steel bolts for the shock monts.

If it was a non stressed bolt, I would use an ordinary bolt, but the shock mounts go through a lot.

Take it somewhere and get someone to use an impact gun to get them off

Bibio · 11-08-14, 07:15 PM

i think they are a specific kind of high tensile and not the ordinary 'black' type as thy still have to give a little where the hight tensile i'm used to working with are for ridged application. the world of nuts and bolts is a fairly large and complex one.

best stick with OEM.

prisspringle · 11-08-14, 10:03 PM

in that case I will lube up my backside......

cheers
Chris

21QUEST · 11-08-14, 11:00 PM

Hi fellas, am I missing something?

Why would he/does he need to cut the bolts off?

prisspringle, hopefully not trying to show you how to suck eggs but are you actually attempting to undo the nut? ie it's tne nut end you should be undoing and not the bolt end.

Yes, the nuts can be tight but you just need good quality socket and apply some leverage. Or use a 12 volts impact wrench or air impact wrench...

I'm not sure how much space(clearance) you have to work with on the pointy but on the Curvy, it's way better to take the rear wheel out.
Even better if you take the exhaust out but I try not to mess about with the exhaust unless absolutely have to, as always a good chance of snapping the exhaust studs or bolts

Once the nuts are off, you might indeed find the bolts are somewhat fused with the spacer but some penetrating fluid and gentle tapping with drift should get the bolt free.

edit: It does help to clean all the crap off the nut and both ends of the bolt.

Sid Squid · 13-08-14, 06:19 AM

They're always bloody tight, but I've never failed to remove them. Good fitting sockets and a long breaker bar is what's needed. In the event you couldn't remove them, don't cut the bolts off, split the nuts - a few nuts will cost less

Biker Biggles · 13-08-14, 06:48 AM

From memory

When I did a curvy rear shock the top bolt was hard to get at with a decent socket,but the bottom bolt is obscured by the dog bones,so the linkage must be dropped first.They were very tight,but not rusty as they were covered in oil flung from the chain.Plenty of wellie gets them off.

andrewsmith · 13-08-14, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

They're always bloody tight, but I've never failed to remove them. Good fitting sockets and a long breaker bar is what's needed. In the event you couldn't remove them, don't cut the bolts off, split the nuts - a few nuts will cost less

This

11-08-14, 06:50 PM	#1
prisspringle Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 58	Shock linkage bolt replacement? hi guys, i've just started to change the rear shock on my k3, sadly it looks like the bolts are rusted solid, apart from the top shock bolt and i can't get to the lower shock bolt, so i looks like i'll have to drill the heads off. My question is do i have to get the bolts from suzuki or can i pop to a nice bolt and nut supplier and does anyone have the sizes? Would it be a good idea to change the seals and bearing while i'm at it as well the bike has done 36,000 miles now and i can't see it being changed anywhere in it history ? cheers chris

11-08-14, 06:53 PM	#2
muzikill Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dunfermline Posts: 1,712	Re: shock linkage bolts Its just a bolt and a 'lock'nut. You gonna have to cut it anyways. If you cant source one elsewhere then oem is the backup plan. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk __________________ Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ), drop it & fix it again! K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed.

11-08-14, 07:15 PM	#5
Bibio Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: here as devil's advocate Posts: 11,569	Re: shock linkage bolts i think they are a specific kind of high tensile and not the ordinary 'black' type as thy still have to give a little where the hight tensile i'm used to working with are for ridged application. the world of nuts and bolts is a fairly large and complex one. best stick with OEM.

11-08-14, 10:03 PM	#6
prisspringle Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Posts: 58	Re: shock linkage bolts in that case I will lube up my backside...... cheers Chris

13-08-14, 06:19 AM	#8
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	Shock linkage bolt replacement? They're always bloody tight, but I've never failed to remove them. Good fitting sockets and a long breaker bar is what's needed. In the event you couldn't remove them, don't cut the bolts off, split the nuts - a few nuts will cost less __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

13-08-14, 06:48 AM	#9
Biker Biggles Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Barnet Herts Posts: 5,071	Re: Shock linkage bolt replacement? From memory When I did a curvy rear shock the top bolt was hard to get at with a decent socket,but the bottom bolt is obscured by the dog bones,so the linkage must be dropped first.They were very tight,but not rusty as they were covered in oil flung from the chain.Plenty of wellie gets them off. __________________ On a clear day we stand there and look further than the ordinary eye can see.

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