Fitting brake hoses, Really?!

[Toooldtodie]

Now I have mastered tying my own shoelaces I have decided to embark on changing the brake lines with HEL braided ones.
Since everything on the bike appears to be falling apart like a clown's car I figured after 10 years they are probably going to fail soon (already You Tubing swingarm bearings, etc too).

Now they don't call it BLEEDING brakes for nothing, so my question is:
Do I decimate my beer budget on a Mityvac or suffocate the fish in the tank by knicking their air tubing and tip away my children's jam for the jar?

Next question:
What falls into the pit am I likely (read definitely) to come across?
I am talking, do this, for Jeez sake don't do this, scenarios.

One day I will be able to sound out words properly (including diagraphs) and may be of some assistance to you in the distant future, so I thank you all in advance. Toooldtodie Nice but Dim.

I think you are over thinking it!

Its so easy to do, just be methodical and take your time!

As you say there will already be a tonne of youtube vids out there to guide you if required.

If you can afford anything to make your job easier then go for it, but I have managed all my brake bleeding with some plastic tube and something to catch it in.

Heres some tips:

1) Be sure to wear gloves to protect your skin from the fluid
2) Perhaps use a syringe to push the fluid up the empty lines thru the bleed nipples on the calipers (Its what I did and worked great). Once the fluid appears at the top of the lines which you will have tied up near the brake lever, connect them to the master cylinder and bleed as normal to get the remaining air out.
3) Always use brand new brake fluid

[Nutsinatin]

Where are you based, if you're local I'll do it with you (I'm Chertsey based)

I've got a 30ml syringe I use to pull the fluid through before finishing it with the normal pump and bleed method, quicker but you can do it just by pumping the lever. My bleed kit is just the syringe, some tubing and a glass jar. Otherwise my main tips would be:
Don't let the reservoir run dry or you are effectively starting again.
If you've got no bubbles coming out the nipples but no lever pressure crack the master cylinder banjo open to bleed the master cylinder.
To reiterate Redmist, use new fluid or you're only going to end up doing this again sooner.
Wipe up all spills quickly as brake fluid eats paint so keep a rag and some spray cleaner handy.

It can be a pain but it's not a terrible job to do as long as you are patient and methodical, you might want to give your calipers a good scrub whilst you've got access to them too. Good luck.

[Red Herring]

Most of the tips have been mentioned, just remember air goes up much easier than it goes down, so trying to bleed all the air out of a dry system (new lines) by pumping it down from the master cylinder fitted to the handlebars is going to take ages, if you manage it at all....

Easy solution as suggested is to fill the system from the bottom, i.e.: the bleed nipples on the callipers, with a syringe full of new fluid. If you can't do that consider taking the master cylinder off and holding it down below the calipers, but that's not always possible on bikes where the lines are routed through fairings etc.

Another very easy air trap is in the end of the master cylinder itself. Some clip on handlebars are angled slightly downwards so the end of the master cylinder where the banjo attaches is it's highest point. Again very easy to undo the master cylinder from the bars and just point the end down slightly while you work the lever a few times to displace the air.

Just try to work things so that the place where you are getting the air out is the highest point.

[Bibio]

wet rags and a bucket of water. brake fluid is hygroscopic so water neutralises it.

[Toooldtodie]

Thanks lads. I am in Chelmsford, but thanks for the very generous offer Nutsinatin.

Ok, be methodical. Filling the lines from the bottom up makes perfect sense. Get to know the local veterinarian to source a syringe. Be prepared to reposition the master cylinder whilst bleeding.

Right. Time to get the old squander card out and order the parts. "I'll be back"

I did mine the other week, bought a '1 man bleeding kit' which is basically a piece of pipe with a non-return valve in the end from Halfords but it did the job! Bled them fine & was expecting it to be agro but I've got a good firm lever now, took me about 20 mins.

If the lever is still spongy, at any point position the bars so that any air bubbles trapped in the cable or master cyl, have an "uphill path" back to the master cylinder. Use a cable tie, or bungee cord to pull the lever to the bars, and leave for 30 mins. Pump the lever once again and you'll be surprised how much air comes out.

[Craig380]

Originally Posted by Markos_46

I did mine the other week, bought a '1 man bleeding kit' which is basically a piece of pipe with a non-return valve in the end from Halfords but it did the job! Bled them fine & was expecting it to be agro but I've got a good firm lever now, took me about 20 mins.

+1, the tube with the non-return valve does speed things up as you don't have to constantly open and close the bleed nipple. Just fit the hose on the nipple, immerse the other end of the tube in a little fluid in a jar or similar, open the nipple a half turn and squeeze away.

As TassieDevil points out, after the initial bleed, turn the bars to full left lock and leave it overnight. Then the next morning, squeeze the lever REALLY GENTLY, and STOP SQUEEZING as soon as you hear the brake light switch click, then let go the lever. Repeat this 5 or 6 times. This allows any air bubbles near the master cylinder to work their way up and out into the reservoir, through the master cylinder's return hole.

If you squeeze hard and quickly (missus), you just force the bubbles back down the brake line, but if you just squeeze gently to move the m/c piston slightly, the air bubbles will rise and escape through the return.

[Toooldtodie]

Thanks again for the good advice.
Always nice to have options when things are not going how you want/expect.
Have bought a Mityvac as I intend to do both front and back lines and change the fluid more frequently. Will be able to afford beer again in time for Christmas... maybe.