Started my Bar Conversion today

Started the conversion of my 2010 pointy S from clip-ons to upright bars today.
I have a few questions which hopefully those who have carried out the conversion can assist me with (Haynes manual does not have the answers)

I bought a CNC top yoke from Matt, some Renthal road medium bars & a GSF (Bandit) 650 K6 clutch cable.

Still to be sorted are braided brake hoses & extended throttle cables.

Removals of existing bars etc went smoothly enough apart from my LH Oxford heated grip which did not survive the removal process.

Progress thus far:

- Airbox removed.
- Throttle cables removed
- Top yoke fitted.
- Handle bars fitted and marked up for drilling for switchgear locating lugs.
- Bandit clutch cable routed and installed at lifter arm end.
Question 1: I don't have enough slack to install at the clutch lever, I assume I
need to adjust the lifter arm ? Also there is quite a lot of lateral movement at
the adjuster/lock nut assy, is it knackered ?
- Attempted to re-route switchgear wiring go get more slack
Question 2: WTF !!! How do I get access to the switchgear connectors that are
buried behind the frame cross beam ?
Why has Suzuki routed the wiring around/behind/under the cross beam ?
I've loosened off various cable retention items in the vicinity, but don't see
how I'm going to get to the connectors. Do I have to cut the loom tape to get
everything apart ?

Any guidance greatly appreciated

Cheers

[Trev B]

Regarding the electric cables,I just cut,soldered then shrink wrapped about 6" of cable where they run between the grips and the bar risers,and finally bound them all up in black duck tape,I got 2 second hand switch gears from a breakers for £10.i used the existing clutch cable,1 st screw the clutch adjuster fully in at the bar end,making sure the slots line up with the lever slot,put the the nipple into the lever and pull the outer back and try to put the outer into the adjuster,then adjust to suit

Thanks for the response Trev.

I've seen from various posts that many people have re-routed the existing switch wiring and not had to cut & splice in new wires so was hoping to follow that path. Didn't appreciate how awkward that was, so will take another look on Friday when I have a day off.

With regards to the clutch cable I have adjusted at both ends for maximum cable slack, but still can't fit to the clutch lever. I'll have a look at at the lifter arm angleadjustment as per Haynes manual. In my previous post when I spoke about lateral movement In the adjuster/locknut assembly I wasn't referring to the the locknut on the cable, but the clutch lifter arm adjuster assembly (the assembly with the lock nut and adjuster screw in the middle)

Cheers

[L3nny]

Can't help with the technical side but get some pics of the conversion up

I got the switchgear wiring loosened off from down in the frame.
I can't get the plug & socket apart.
I just push the tab in with my thumb and pull apart & it should unmate or am I missing something ??

It's the yellow connector in the picture.

Cheers

Got them apart - wasn't swearing enough !

So I now have a lot more slack in the wiring, but the LH (clutch) bar wiring still looks too tight with cables as per original routing round the front of the fork - I assume the option others have taken is to route behind the forks and cable tie to ensure they don't get trapped lock to lock ?

Clutch cable all hooked up - thanks to Bibio for the tip.

Cheers

[Adam Ef]

They show the changed cable routing on the CNC website in the pics if I remember correctly?

Couple of spare hours last Friday, so a bit more progress made:

Switchgear wiring/connectors re-routed to gain additional length.
Handlebars drilled and switchgear/controls fitted.
Bandit clutch cable installed.

Next steps:
Tidy up the switchgear wire routing & cable tie to bars etc.
Longer throttle cables to be sourced.
Longer braided brake lines to be sourced.
Replacement heated grip for clutch side.
Fabricate a new brake reservoir bracket, re-orientating the existing bracket puts too tight a bend radius on reservoir to master cylinder hose.

For info the Renthal Road Medium bars put the bars approx 4" higher than clip-ons and feel very comfortable sitting on the bike.

Cheers

[Trev B]

Here's mine using the standard bracket.!!!

What is this supposed to do?

I realise its supposed to be more comfortable, but what aspect? does it take pressure off wrists or?

Sorry for the hijack