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Old 21-01-08, 09:20 AM   #1
gts_rider
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Default HELP!! '01 SV650 Valve Lash adjustment

Anyone here that have done this without dropping the engine?

I have a shop manual, but all of the instructions for valve lash adjust are with the engine already dropped. My main point of pain is in removing the cam chain tensioners. The outside bolt on the front cyl. was easy, but the inside (allen head) bolt is a real bitch. The frame is in the way for straight down access, and it's too tight to get a hand in there with a regular allen wrench.
I was planing on going out to get some new tools for that one tomorrow. I figured maybe a ball-end allen wrench would work so I could hit it at a slight angle. In the meantime, I moved to work on the rear cylinder. Jeez, nevermind whether I can get a tool on it, I can't even see it. It would be all by feel.
So, back to the original question. How do I? or Can I? do this without dropping the engine?

Anyone?
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Old 21-01-08, 11:01 AM   #2
yorkie_chris
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Default Re: HELP!! '01 SV650 Valvle Lash adjustment

Yup it's not that bad to do so long as the carbs are out of the way and you have the little locking tool for when you put them back in.

Rear cylinder is far easier without the back wheel attatched.

I seem to remember using a 1/4 drive extension socket for the allen bolts.
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Old 21-01-08, 12:21 PM   #3
johnnyrod
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Default Re: HELP!! '01 SV650 Valvle Lash adjustment

You can do it with the engine in the frame, but it is a fiddle. Last time I found I'd been a bit over-zealous withthe gasket compund and once unbolted, the rear CCT wouldn't come off. I ended up just taking out the end bolt (be careful you don't overtighten this when replacing it), and using a screwdriver to relieve the chain tension while refiting the camshaft. Think I had the missus hold the screwdriver against the spring. Anyway worked so well I didn't bother unbolting the front one.
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Old 21-01-08, 12:59 PM   #4
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Default Re: HELP!! '01 SV650 Valvle Lash adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by yorkie_chris View Post
Yup it's not that bad to do so long as the carbs are out of the way and you have the little locking tool for when you put them back in.

Rear cylinder is far easier without the back wheel attatched.

I seem to remember using a 1/4 drive extension socket for the allen bolts.
Heh, that's what I was thinking. Pull the carbs for access to the front and pull the rear wheel to see the rear. I guess that's easier than dropping the motor, but it's a hell of a job for a simple valve adjust.
Oh well, the more I complain about it, the less time I spend on actually doing it...
If anyone has any other short-cut suggestions, I'm all ears...
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