Valve Clearances, Alternator Cover woes and a Paint Job

[Blue Flame]

Every 15,000 miles - Or 24 Months
Check the Valve Clearances

Current Mileage approx 19,000 - 48 Months
Eek <Better get it done then>

After querying the price of this job at a professional establishment I picked myself off the floor and decided to do it myself.

While I was at it the old girl needed an oil change, spark plugs and the coolant/antifreeze had to be replaced (which is a good job really cos you need to remove that radiator to get at the front cylinder valve covers).

All in all this job went fairly well. Got the Haynes Manual out and followed the instructions but not to the letter. (Main difference being the fact that you do not have to remove the fuel tank despite the book telling you too).

My biggest issue with this job was with accessing the alternator rotor bolt. Went pretty much along the lines of ----

Remove the Timing Mark Inspection Cap - CR^P - Don't have that size of Key
Remove the Crankshaft End Cap - CR^P- Don't have that size of Key
<cue Benny Hill music whilst I run to Halfords and back>
Remove the Timing Mark Inspection Cap - Check !!
Remove the Crankshaft End Cap - Check !!
Fit a 17mm Socket to the Alternator Rotor Bolt - Errm No....
.....My 17mm socket is too big to fit through the hole left by removing the end cap.

It was a good job that I had already removed the oil for the oil change because the only option left was to remove the alternator cover..... which meant I also had to remove the clutch cabling and mechanism !!

Took me some time cos it was the first time I had ventured so far into the bike and there is a lot of removing of bits, & draining of antifreeze and oil to get there but now I know what I am doing (sort of) it should be easier next time.

So.... On to the paint job. This is something that I have been thinking about for some time because the clutch and alternator covers were definately showing a good bit of wear and tear. Got myself some Casing Paint and this is the final result.

...And yes I know it's not the original Colour. I knew that before I sprayed it.

Originally Posted by Blue Flame

now I know what I am doing (sort of) it should be easier next time.

Because next time you'll have the right 17mm socket?

Casing paint you say? Boy could Project Triumph use some of that. I was going to get it powder coated but that sounds a lot cheaper and less hassle. Is that what it's officially called and where do you get it mate?

looks good but I have no idea where you painted. but nothing is standing out glaringly obvious so must be good. well done Mr Mechanic

[Blue Flame]

Originally Posted by Tiger 55

Casing paint you say? Boy could Project Triumph use some of that. I was going to get it powder coated but that sounds a lot cheaper and less hassle. Is that what it's officially called and where do you get it mate?

It's called PJ1 Engine and Case Paint. I got it from M&P. Seems to leave a good finish which is amazing really because painting is something I have never been good at.
(In fact when I was little my parents were deeply concerned about my phsycological well being because all my paintings were just an indistinguishable black mess.)

It reemains to be seen how it copes with the rigours of the elements but time will tell.

[timwilky]

Sounds like you went well overboard. When I checked my SV valve clearance. The only thing I removed was the covers, a quick flick of the ignition button being enough to turn the cams into their correct orientation to slide a feeler gauge under, ie lobe upright.

[Blue Flame]

Hmmmm. I did not think of that.

I am one of those peeps who read instruction manuals before I switch anything on or attempt tasks which is probably why I do the job I do.

Did you check the alignment of the R and F marks through the timing mark hole when doing that?

[northwind]

I think you could have done it by putting it in gear and pushing it too

For future reference- the Clarke deep 1/2 inch socket is exactly the right size for the crank hole.

Originally Posted by Blue Flame

After querying the price of this job at a professional establishment I picked myself off the floor and decided to do it myself.

Originally Posted by timwilky

Sounds like you went well overboard. When I checked my SV valve clearance. The only thing I removed was the covers, a quick flick of the ignition button being enough to turn the cams into their correct orientation to slide a feeler gauge under, ie lobe upright.

Originally Posted by northwind

I think you could have done it by putting it in gear and pushing it too

For future reference- the Clarke deep 1/2 inch socket is exactly the right size for the crank hole.

Makes you wonder how much work the profeesional etablishment does for the money doesn't it?

[Blue Flame]

Looks like I have learn't a few lessons then. Thanx.

[northwind]

On the bright side you didn't drop anything down inside the engine, like Jambo