Clutch adjustment

My 3yr old pointy has getting on for 18,000 on the clock (surprised the **** out of me, I keep the odometer on trip).

Gear selection is a bit stiff and sometimes a bit stiff into neutral.

Usually I sort this by adjusting the clutch cable at the lever, but I've now run out of adjustment and can't unscrew this any further or the screw thread separates from the lever.

I guess I need to screw this adjuster all the way back in and adjust the cable at the other end now. I'm assuming this is an easy job?

How much life do you think is left in my clutch?

Have you dont the adjustment at the pushrod? I cant quite recall in words how to do it, but I do know that this is where the clutch is really adjusted...adjusting at the cable only adjusts for slack / free play

BTW your able should be fine. I think though you should get it off and give it a good oil up does it feel smooth when you pull the clutch in? if so, then everythings fine except it needs proper adjustment

Ever had the mount apart recently, cleaned, greaseed then put back on.
Did wonder to my bike when my gear selector was stiff.

[Bluepete]

The other end of the cable is behind the case on the left of the bike just above the gear ****er. You need a socket set and a small spanner. It isn't difficult, I managed to replace my entire cable, it only cost £17, so was, to me at least, easier and less of a fafff than loobing he old one back into shape.

Pete

Yes the cable is fine and smooth, and so is the gear lever so long as the lever has recently been adjusted.

But every couple of thousand miles I've found that the clutch biting point gradually gets closer and closer to the bar until you find the bike creeping forward in first gear at traffic lights on a fully depressed clutch lever, gear change with a clunk and it's impossible to find neutral.

Unscrew that adjuster at the lever to effectively pull the clutch cable in a bit, and it sorts it for another few thousand miles.

I've never had anything open at the gearbox end of the cable.

Originally Posted by BluePete

The other end of the cable is behind the case on the left of the bike just above the gear ****er. You need a socket set and a small spanner. It isn't difficult, I managed to replace my entire cable, it only cost £17, so was, to me at least, easier and less of a fafff than loobing he old one back into shape.

Pete

OK, thanks. I've already pulled the clutch cable in effectively 10-15mm more than it was when new though, so should I be adjusting it further? Is it down to cable stretch or clutch wear (or both)? Does anyone know how long a clutch is expected to last?

[flymo]

Originally Posted by -Ralph-

OK, thanks. I've already pulled the clutch cable in effectively 10-15mm more than it was when new though, so should I be adjusting it further? Is it down to cable stretch or clutch wear (or both)? Does anyone know how long a clutch is expected to last?

I wouldnt bother worrying about the clutch plates until you have adjusted at both ends of the cable and the push rod.

If you havent serviced it recently you may want to try after adding fresh oil, it can affect the clutch feel alot. There is a wear limit on the clutch plates but you would have to remove the clutch cover and measure them to check that. If you plan to do that I would time it so that you change engine oil, filter, clutch plates and the associated cover gasket all at the same time.

[punyXpress]

Hi Ralph
My K2 has done 31 thousand & been adjusted at the lower end a couple of times - now needs doing again. Unless you are a wheelie freak, expect your plates will last a lot longer.
There's 2 pages in Haynes on this & even I managed to follow it - have you a copy? If not, could photocopy & post to you ( can't cope with uber-tech stuff like scanning )

Originally Posted by flymo

I wouldnt bother worrying about the clutch plates until you have adjusted at both ends of the cable and the push rod.

If you havent serviced it recently you may want to try after adding fresh oil, it can affect the clutch feel alot. There is a wear limit on the clutch plates but you would have to remove the clutch cover and measure them to check that. If you plan to do that I would time it so that you change engine oil, filter, clutch plates and the associated cover gasket all at the same time.

Originally Posted by punyXpress

Hi Ralph
My K2 has done 31 thousand & been adjusted at the lower end a couple of times - now needs doing again. Unless you are a wheelie freak, expect your plates will last a lot longer.
There's 2 pages in Haynes on this & even I managed to follow it - have you a copy? If not, could photocopy & post to you ( can't cope with uber-tech stuff like scanning )

OK, thanks very much for the advice. I have the Suzuki workshop manuals so hopefully this will tell me how to do it and if not I may take you up on the offer of a photocopy. (PS: no not a wheelie freak, I'm to tight to pay for new chain and sprockets stretched by wheelies, never mind replacing a clutch early!)

It was serviced at 15800 so I'll do the next one just before it hits 20000. I've been stretching it out a couple of hundred miles each time to try and get the bike into a 4k servicing interval which I think is sufficient, ie 20, 24, 28, 32, etc. It's only set at 3500 miles by Suzuki 'cos thats the nearest lower round figure to 6000 km, so the on the continent the bike would only be getting done at best every 3750 miles anyway.

I did want a new bike, but I have just finished paying for the SV and could do with a bit of a break from the finance repayments to replace some of my riding gear before changing it.

[Viney]

ralph, do a serach for Sid Squids Clutch adjustment post. It tells you how to do it. The Haynes method is a bit rubbish!

Found it

http://forums.sv650.org/showpost.php...86&postcount=2