clutch bite point adjustment

my clutch mechanism (worm gear) is properly adjusted (after several back and forth attempts). and the cable is free and in good shape. but I have an ongoing disagreement with my shop mechanic over adjustment of the bite point and free play in the lever.

the full range of lever movement is about 100mm (at the tip) from tight against the bar to fully 'relaxed'. of this 100mm, about 50mm-55mm is 'functional' (i.e., the cable is operating against the worm gear and driving the release rod from fully relaxed (i.e. clutch totaly engaged) to completely disengaged. the rest of the clutch lever stoke is 'wasted' (my term), in that the 'surplus' cable action neither 'over-releases' nor 'pre-releases' the clutch plates. in other words, taking up slack in the worm gear 'doesn't count' and pushing the clutch plates further apart once they're fully released also 'doesn't count'.

my mechanic likes to adjust my clutch action so that there is very little freeplay at the outer end of the lever range before the clutch cable comes tight and the worm gear starts to 'drive'. this puts the bite point (at the opposite end of the functional portion of the lever movement) a long way out from the bar, which i detest. i prefer to have the bite point 15mm-25mm out from the bar, then there's 50mm or so of operating range, which makes the freeplay 30mm give or take 5mm. the lever is just 'flapping in the wind' out there, but that's the way I like it - i control the friction region of the clutch action far better when it's in the middle of my finger curve range than at full stretch. (the manual says 'correct' free play (at the outer, relaxed, engaged end of the lever range) should be 10mm-15mm.)

my mechanic says i'll damage the clutch by adjusting the lever to provide this much freeplay. to me, that's utter nonsense. the freeplay isn't DOING anything - the clutch is already totally engaged or completely disengaged once the lever (and cable, and wormdrive) are beyond the 'operating range', and there's absolutely no slipping going on. at the inner end of the range, i can tell that the clutch is totally disengaged because a) there is not even enough drag to spin the rear wheel in gear on a stand until i let the lever out 15mm-20mm, and b) i've had to **** around with this numerous times to get the bite point out to where it's easy to hit neutral - again, proof of no drag...

I hope I'm clear. any of you more mechanically experienced members care to comment?

thanks, cheers, don

to a lot of people clutch adjustment is a personal preference and point of engagement likewise. i set mine like this and it suits me, undo locknut, backoff screw and then wind in until just contacting, back off 1/8 turn, nip up locknut. at the lever. freeplay is 3mm, so the lever moves 12mm at tip ball without doing anything. as long as there is freeplay the clutch will not be damaged.

[yorkie_chris]

If it is not slipping on power, and not dragging at standstill (i.e does not creep and you can find neutral) then it is fine

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

If it is not slipping on power, and not dragging at standstill (i.e does not creep and you can find neutral) then it is fine

thanks YC, and BG too.

I run my bite point close to the bar. I've got loads of free play when released. I prefer the fine adjustment I have from closed fingers than fingers fully extended.

So my clutch doesn't lift as high as others where the basket opens further. As long as I can disengauge it, then whats the problem?

Have it where you like.

C

Originally Posted by Berlin

I run my bite point close to the bar. I've got loads of free play when released. I prefer the fine adjustment I have from closed fingers than fingers fully extended.

just the way I like it too, berlin.

and as you guys confirm, my shop mechanic is badly misunderstanding the clutch operation...

cheers again

[yorkie_chris]

Lots set them like that. It is better for a customer to adjust it themselves later than complain they have dragging clutch.

I was told the way its set like this (bite point further from the bar) because its "tougher" on the hand and makes your hand more prone to ache if its set too close.

I tend to agree, with my limited experience. My hand was aching on the 125's which had the bite point very close the bar, but Im fine on the 500s where the bite point is near to my fingers fully extended.

It IS nice to know that its more or less down to personal preference though

Sounds like you need a new mechanic! lol.

Originally Posted by Weirdfish

Sounds like you need a new mechanic! lol.

agreed.