Bypassing clutch switch permanently.

Apologies if this has been posted before.

Does anyone know if disengaging the clutch switch start will cause me any technical issues? This means I don't have to hold the clutch in to start the bike. I know that it's there as a safety device, but the bike still won't start in gear with the side stand down, or start in gear without the clutch lever pulled in (so from a safety perspective should be fine) but does anyone know if it will cause any 'speed limiter' issues (or other rumours I've heard)?

Basically, the dealer fitted my SV with an ASV clutch lever ('cos I find the OEM lever span too wide for my hand). As the lever was positioned too high (so my wrist was crooked and it was starting to give me serious cramp everytime I pulled the clutch lever in), I adjusted the clutch position downwards. Unfortunately, this seemed to do something to alter the distance between the 'plunger' on the clutch switch start and the little plastic 'brick' that pushes the plunger in when the clutch lever isn't pulled in. I tried adjusting it back and every which way, but basically the little plunger isn't coming out all the way, so the bike won't start even if I pull the clutch lever in hard.

I know I need to get the dealer to sort it out, but I am off to Scotland on Friday and I seriously doubt he'll be able to get any parts in in time. So will it cause me any issues if I disengage the clutch switch start temporarily till I get back?!

Thanks

Jo

If you unplug it completly it won't start, you'll need to close the circuit again, but other than that, as long as you don't try to start it in gear etc... you should be fine

if you bypass the clutch switch nothing else will be effected
but if you do try and start it in gear it WILL lurch forward
the side stand saftey switch is a completely seperate entity so this will still work as standard

to bypass it you can simply put a bridge betwen the circuts eg a paper clip (in the brick) or remove the link (brick) and splice the wires together

the first one can be put back to original quickly the second obviously not (without doing some *soldering *sp)

hth

Thanks. I've temporarily removed the plastic 'brick' that pushes the plunger in, so that the plunger is always 'out'. The bike now starts without having to pull the clutch in (because the plunger is never depressed).

Haven't done anything with the wires, but my concern is whether there will be any loss of power issues, or any other technical issues, if the plunger is always 'out'. I've heard rumours that Suzuki design their bikes to have a speed limiter which kicks in if the clutch switch start is bypassed!

[mister c]

My clutch switch has been shorted out since I bought the bike 2 years ago. You shouldnt have any trouble at all disconnecting it

[yorkie_chris]

Some of TLs and stuff switch to a different map, it is not a speed limiter per se but it does change ignition advance and/or mixture.

On the curvy model there is no such thing, because the clutch switch is not connected to anything except the starter solenoid.

Dont bypass the clutch switches on the injected SV or any other injected Suzuki. Even if bypassed the bike will run in a neutral ignition and gear map loosing performance and in some cases like the GSXR1000, revs. The GSXR600 is particulary one that reacts badly to it making circa 80-90bhp with it bypassed.

No longer bypassed - just filed the plunger down a little so that it can pop out properly!

Thanks people

Jo

Originally Posted by SV650Racer

Dont bypass the clutch switches on the injected SV or any other injected Suzuki. Even if bypassed the bike will run in a neutral ignition and gear map loosing performance and in some cases like the GSXR1000, revs. The GSXR600 is particulary one that reacts badly to it making circa 80-90bhp with it bypassed.

This is true for the GSXR but not for the SV, if you do things properly.

The SV clutch switch connects to two places: the relay next to the fuse block, and the ECU. It's the connection to the relay that prevents the starter motor from running with the clutch out. So if you ground the clutch switch wire where it goes into the relay, the starter will work provided the bike is in neutral or the stand is up.

If at the same time you cut the wire that runs to the ECU, then as far as the ECU knows, the clutch is out. Logically then, it can't apply any sort of map-change.

You might imagine that if the ECU thinks the clutch is out it will somehow stop the starter from working... but it doesn't, at least on the K3 (and all the later models from what I've heard).

The ECU though needs to see the clutch being pulled in activating the switch. If the ECU cant see that it will run in a neutral gear position and ignition map. The bypass sadly doesnt work.