Coolant level, filling and cap?

Hi all,
Just went to check the coolant level on my SV curvey.....

Cant see anything in the expansion bottle!!

So I lifted the tank to see where to fill it. Do you fill it through the radiator cap? There is another stubby pipe sitting on the right side of the airbox with what looks like an overflow hose coming out the side.. BUT there is no cap on it! Should there be? how does it attach, because I cant see any threads or anything to screw a cap in there.

Finally what type of coolant shall I add? I have some halfords stuff for the car and some G12++ for my VW.. would they be ok?

Thanks...
mr confused

[Sid Squid]

First make sure there's nothing in the expansion tank - often they're not as easy to see through as they should be.
Assuming you're correct in your assumption that the tank is empty, check the level in the rad is full first, remove the cap and use the Mark One Eyeball Method, (tm), if it's not first fill the rad and then put the cap back on, then fill the tank to above the low mark, (cold).
Ordinarily the coolant level should be checked at the expansion tank, this of course assumes there's a level to check - i.e. there's some in there.
Under normal conditions of use the cooling system should not require continuous topping up, if it does something is amiss.
I'm not sure what that coolant is, but as long as it's suitable for aluminium engines it will probably be OK.

umm..... ok. Tried to get rad cap off, but it unscrews about half a turn but wont come off.

Second i "dippped" the expansion tank with a long cable tie and it came out with what looks like fresh oil. Its oil coloured, hasn't gone milky or anything. Looks like some coolant residue as well. This doesnt look good.

Ok got rad cap off. was just a bit stiff. Is full with coolant and has not oil residue.

Put a clear pipe down the expansion bottle, capped the end off and with drew. Clean fluid in tube and bit of oil on the tip, which would suggest oil floating on top of the water.... not sure why

[embee]

I've heard others talk of an oily appearance on the top of coolant. I would suggest that it is very probably a constituent of the coolant itself, it contains various chemical products which can eventually separate out or degrade.

For what it costs, I'd suggest changing the coolant anyway if it's of unknown age. Long-life coolants are intended for typically 5yr service life, others should be changed at 2yrs really.

Use a silicate free coolant (generally Japanese engines use silicate free, it ensures good water pump seal life). Halford's long-life stuff is fine, Texaco-Havoline XLC coolant is good, I use Toyota Red ready-mixed. The VW G12++ is top quality stuff.

Originally Posted by embee

I've heard others talk of an oily appearance on the top of coolant. I would suggest that it is very probably a constituent of the coolant itself, it contains various chemical products which can eventually separate out or degrade.

Phew, ok. I was a bit worried there for a moment that there might be something more mechanically wrong like a failing head gasket or something. I don't know how old the coolant is having just bought the bike but will do that and give it a go.

Is there anything I should flush it with or just water?

[embee]

Water, plenty of it (hosepipe bans permitting).