Re: Advice / opinion etc

Hi

I hope this is in the right section (if not sorry, pls. move)

Here`s my dilema...

I have a K1 curvy (naked), I have had it for a few months and it is used daily. It has just turned 16k so needs the valve clearance`s checking & the choke plungers sorting as they are seized. On top of this i want to get some braided lines fitted in the process, so the bill is looking to be about £300 - £350 ish .

I also sometimes find it a bit uncomfortable on longer journeys as it feels cramped when my feet are on the pegs - kinda know the answer`s that I`m gonna get but figured i`d ask anyway-

Do I....

A) Get the work done / possibly have the seat raised as I feel this will solve the cramped issue - Within reasonable cost -.
b) Look to buy a new bike (seen a nice XJR )
c) who know`s, haha



Dazza

if you sell it,any half clued buyer will figure in the cost of the clearances needing done on the price and look to get the cost off.
lower the rearsets and it'll make a difference,bear in mind you have a naked and they will always be a little bit more uncomfortable than a faired bike on longer journeys.
do the choke plungers yourself -there not difficult, hardest part is making sure you don't mash the cheese screws.

Looks like you already know what you want to do.

There is always a possibility someone will buy your bike and not even think about asking if the valve clearances have been done or not. The choke plungers are easy enough to sort out, but as has been said, you really have to watch what you do with them screws. So so easy to chew them up.

[Biker Biggles]

Id say you should either buy a new bike and get it maintained by a garage or learn to do basic servicing yourself and keep your current bike.If you think £300-350 is a shed load of money for getting those issues sorted and a valve service I suggest you cant afford option one above so-------
As Husky says do it yourself.Choke plungers are simple if awkward,and checking the valve clearances is fairly simple too.They rarely need adjusting which is more difficult.
Does it really need braided lines,or do the brakes need a service?
It will need a basic engine service at 16000 miles,most of which is easy.You need to change oil and filters (very easy)and probably the plugs(easy do it when you check valves)and check a few adjustments all of which are in the manual and easy to do.
The money you save is well spent on petrol and riding your newly tranformed bike.

Hi

All, many thanks. I would like to think i have the knowledge to do the plungers etc but what i don`t want to happen is to start it and run into "issues" (i`m not a SV Guru like most on here) and be without a bike until i can get it to a shop to sort out - work is 15 miles each way and that`s a long way on pedal power - I can do basic stuff etc and doubt i would start something like that unless i had supervision - any takers on here? - I don`t think £350 ish is a lot to get stuff sorted i was expecting a bill nearer £450 to be honest . The brakes (front do need a service - I am gonna strip them down etc in a week or so when i have some time).

Rgds

Originally Posted by Whyte25

Hi

I can do basic stuff etc and doubt i would start something like that unless i had supervision - any takers on here? -

Rgds

Local to me obviously...

[Biker Biggles]

The chokes are a regular issue on the sv.If you follow the cable it goes into a splitter and one goes to each carb.The cable itself and splitter need lubing so it moves freely,and where the cables enter the carbs there is a single screw holding a small plate which holds the cable to the carb.Remove the screw(thats the tricky bit)and gently pull the cable out.It is spring loaded against the plunger.Just make sure that moves freely and is lubed up.You need the right screwdriver to get them out and access to the front one is confined.Practice on the rear one which is easy.

Originally Posted by Biker Biggles

The chokes are a regular issue on the sv.If you follow the cable it goes into a splitter and one goes to each carb.The cable itself and splitter need lubing so it moves freely,and where the cables enter the carbs there is a single screw holding a small plate which holds the cable to the carb.Remove the screw(thats the tricky bit)and gently pull the cable out.It is spring loaded against the plunger.Just make sure that moves freely and is lubed up.You need the right screwdriver to get them out and access to the front one is confined.Practice on the rear one which is easy.

Hmm is that it? Ok, What about balancing etc (would that need to be done afterwards) Don`t the carbs have to be taken off ? Or are they taken off just to make it easier ?

[punyXpress]

Ask Spannerman - he MAY quote you a cheaper price and I'm sure you'll learn a hell of a lot more than just SV stuff by watching. He's not that far from you.

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by punyXpress

Ask Spannerman - he MAY quote you a cheaper price and I'm sure you'll learn a hell of a lot more than just SV stuff by watching. He's not that far from you.

+1, Stewart might be cheaper.
I'd speak to sv650 racer (steve jordans m/c) aswel, they may be cheaper as twins are their bread and butter

if your selling don't do the lines