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#1 |
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After reading the hastle that Dan (Barwel) has gone through with his exhaust stud/nuts i thought i would look mine over and this is what i found
![]() ![]() So is this corrosion of the nuts? Both sides are in this state. What is left of the nuts doesnt look good so am i looking at a real PITA if i need to take the exhaust off in ther near future?
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#2 |
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Mine looked like that, managed to hammer a socket onto them to get them off, actually the whole stud came out with the nuts still siezed on and I replaced them with stainless bolts.
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#3 |
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Invest in a tin of penetrating oil (plus gas etc.) and a decent 6 side flat wall drive socket.
Regularly soak in the penetrating oil and after a week try cracking them, when you do not need the bike for a while (just in case the studs fail). Otherwise, try either a nut splitter or angle grinder to remove the nuts and then dress the threads by running a die down.
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#4 |
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I'd be a bit wary of shearing off the stud. I think I'd just get straight into that with the drill. Carefully drill out one side of the bolt and it should then just spin off quite easily. A nut splitter tool would presumably work too, although I've never used one of those.
You can then get the collar off and remove the studs with a socket type stud extractor. Replace with stainless items and plenty of copperslip. If I didn't need the exhaust off, I'd leave it alone. |
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#5 |
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#6 |
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i'de look into getting a nut extractor set, always a handy tool to have round grubby nuts.
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#7 |
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#8 |
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Don't even try to undo them, get a hacksaw blade and wrap a few turns of tape around one end, then cut one side off of the nut - cut parallel to the axis of the stud. Try to cut along the surface of the thread, as close as you can so as to remove as much of the nut as you can, it won't matter if you nick the threads a bit but try to keep it to a minimum.
When you've cut right through and removed a section of the nut, using a suitable rod as a drift tap the nut - and I mean tap, don't lean on it any harder than you need to - in the direction required to undo it, it won't be gripping the stud very hard anymore, and a little tap should see it start to move. I really mean this - don't try to undo exhaust nuts that are even stiff to turn, cut them off. The various threads on here detailing how trying to undo the nuts attest to how easy it is to break the studs, and what a pain it is if you do. I've never broken an exhaust stud and I've been required to remove some really rusty crud in the past - this works.
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#9 |
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Thanks for all replies so far you guys are the best. Cheers Sid that sounds like a plan
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Black naked 1999 sv650 which im trying to keep happy Custom paintwork Saragon Customs Spray painting Electrical fault finding guide and Regulator rectifier test Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window. |
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#10 |
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Geo that looks like fun.
I'd to what Sid specced, I'm able to get mine off with a 6 side socket (and penetrating oil) and they're siezed. 4 stainless steel nuts are £8 on Westgate Rd, the studs are a few quid each
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