Is this circuit going to work?

Planning some electrical work on the bike, although Im confident with the actual wiring part Im not too sure of my understanding of circuits so thought I'd run it by you lot.

Red is Pos, White Neg -
AND YES I KNOW THE FUSES ARE IN THE WRONG ORDER COMPEARED TO THE DEVISES BUT I CANT BE BOTHERED AMENDING THE JPG



Please, your comments are welcome.

[andrewsmith]

it should as long as the fuses are the right rating and the battery is up to it.

What size is the battery (rating)?
Matt is all the cables going towards the front end?

The battery is a 12v gel MF super sealed doohicky recieving about 14.5v while the ignition is live, thanks to a direct power feed from the reg/rec I dont know what rating that makes it tbh.

They are all going to the front, the fuse box will actually be located at the front also which is sort of the inspiration for the question. My thinking (hoping) is that I'll get away with running just one new live and one new neg from the battery to the front then have the fuses etc all bundled up the front.

Ideally I'd prefer them to run from the ignition live as opposed to the battery but thats a whole new question for resolving once the circuit is confirmed.

[andrewsmith]

matt give me about an hour i'm sure one of the mags did a how to last yr. I'll see if ive gt the mag.
Is the vapour the dash?

[keith_d]

Remember that the feed to the fusebox should be thick enough to carry the full load for all the items, plus a suitable margin for fault conditions.

I'm thinking you'll use something like

Grips - fused 10A, continuous load 3A
HID - fused 10A, continuous load 3A
Phone - fused 3A, continuous load 0.1A
Vapor - fused 3A, continuous load 0.2A

I'd be looking at a 18A feed to the fuse box, based on the assumption that a 10A fuse will blow at around 150% of the rated current. So have a rummage and see if you've got any 2.5mm red/black cable left over in your garage.

Just my thoughts,

Keith.

[andrewsmith]

Matt here's the relay option

http://www.cyclenutz.com/Fuse-Block-...ion_df_49.html

Out of curiosity, why would you be running HID's separate from the head light wiring loom?

[tigersaw]

If you are going to mount the fusebox / distribution box a distance from the battery, then the lead supplying the box should itself be fused close to the battery, with a sufficient rating.
You don't want to have an un-fused positive cable running any distance.

Originally Posted by Holdup

Out of curiosity, why would you be running HID's separate from the head light wiring loom?

Why would he be wanting HIDs at all, the reflectors aren't designed for them? One of my pet hates is after-market HIDs. I haven't seen one properly wired in set, and not one properly adjusted set and none that are unobtrusive and don't dazzle other road users - I bloody hate the things with a passion and feel that anyone who thinks they need them is overestimating their ability to ride at night... or ride at all.

If you can't see far enough ahead with a stock headlight, get off the road - you're obviously in need of some kind of eye test to see how bad your sight is.

Originally Posted by tigersaw

If you are going to mount the fusebox / distribution box a distance from the battery, then the lead supplying the box should itself be fused close to the battery, with a sufficient rating.
You don't want to have an un-fused positive cable running any distance.

There's no need to run an earth back to the battery either - an earth is just that, an earth. You can ground everything down to the frame and save running extra cable along the length of the bike.