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#1 |
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Hi all.
I had a huge crash at the bottom of Craner Curves yesterday with the NG club, while leading I might add. Bike looped itself a few times and is in a fairly sorry state. It's now at my sponsor's workshop undergoing repairs to get it ready for Knockhill at the end of the month. The dash was ripped clean off and also damaged the connector block, probably in the field somewhere. My sponsor has a race display, not sure which type, but it comes with an array of wiring, probes and sensors. I had the bike running earlier, I was quite surprised that the clocks didn't need to be fitted to complete the immobiliser circuit. I'm not one for shift lights and would much prefer a rev counter. Find it's too easy to hit the limiter on the SV, and the racing is pretty close, so wouldn't like to start losing out due to bad shifts. Is it straight forward to wire in a dash, picking up the revs, but more importantly, the engine warning/management light? I'd say it's fairly essential for any fault finding. Temperature probe can go straight into the bottom of the rad. Those are all I need.. I've looked in the usual places and clocks don't come cheap, otherwise I'd avoid this problem all together. Just another note.. Due to the location of the tilt switch, this was also ripped from the loom. The bike wouldn't run, so I fitted some spade connectors and connected them up to the switch. It went perfectly, but the switch didn't cut out the engine, regardless of the position. Does anyone know which way the wires connect in the block? If in the up position, you have red, brown and black, which goes top, middle and bottom? Cheers, Keith. |
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#2 |
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I decided it wasn't worth the effort of wiring in aftermarket clocks, so bought some standard clocks from a breakers instead. Was against changing them anyway, wouldn't like losing the ability to fault find.
Could anyone confirm which wires go where on the tip over sensor? I've checked out the wiring diagram, but need to know which way they go, relative to the up position. |
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#3 |
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Think its either on or off so shouldn't matter
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#4 |
The Sick Man
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tip oover sensor is just a simple circuit, inside it just a brass 'U' with a ring on it, when the bike tips over it then makes the closes the connection and a second later or so the bike stops
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#5 |
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Thanks for the replies.
Funny you should say that, TSM. I connected the sensor back to the wiring with spade connectors and the bike fired up and ran fine. However, tilting the sensor didn't affect the running of the bike. This is what got me thinking about the wiring. Don't like the idea of it just cutting out at random at my race meetings. Is there any way to eliminate the switch by bridging the wiring? I don't particularly care for the bike running or not while on it's side or upside down. If it goes wrong and that happens, I'll accept the consequences. But I'm not happy paying £300 on entry fees to find it randomly cuts out in half the races. Last edited by Klank44; 11-06-12 at 11:26 AM. Reason: Fat fingers |
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#6 | |
The Sick Man
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Whichever way you cant just 'tilt' the sensor, it only work in one plane which would be where it should be originally fitted so it does not get affected by wheelies and stoppies but only by falling over on its side. Look at the wiring diagram in the back of a haynes if you have it or the service manuals should be available on the main site http://www.sv650.org/sv_manuals.htm
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
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#7 |
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Evening all.
I've been working on the bike today and started making good progress on it. However, after tidying up the under tray and all the wiring, I fired the bike up to find a high idle and the C28 fault code. Google helped me identify that this is the STVA, or quite possibly the ECU and the wiring in between. Having checked the wiring diagram and some other results from Google, it appears that I have my work cut out for me. For starters, could someone take a look at their tilt sensor and identify which wire goes where? If I know that problem is solved, I can start fault finding properly. Cheers, Keith. |
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#8 |
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I've now sorted this problem. Worked out the wiring from the Suzuki service manual. The fault finding section came in very handy!
Gotbthe bike running to find the FI flashing and it revving it's tits off at idle. Turned out to be C28. Took the throttle bodies off, made are everything was opening correctly and fitted to find a C14 fault. Daft **** forgot to connect the throttle position sensor. Also had C23. Once the throttle bodies were back on, tilt sensor was connected properly etc, it ran beautifully through the gears. Seems it does matter which way it's wired up. Just need to crimp some spade connectors onto the wiring and silicone it to death. Already glad I forked out for a set of standard clocks. Would of had so many problems had I tried to wire in an after market unit. |
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