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#1 |
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I've been having the bike randomly get stuck in gear for a while now & since I've tried adjusting the clutch a few times kinda figured it must be a notched basket. So I opened it up & found this
![]() I know you can repair it by removing the notches with emery paper but I just want to check is it both the hub & outer basket that need to be done or is it only one side that actually causes it? |
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#2 |
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Both, I usually use a file.
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#3 |
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I can't spot anything... where is it?
Last edited by Destruktor77; 18-03-12 at 09:35 PM. |
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#4 |
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#5 |
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No, I really have no clue when it comes to clutches and gear boxes.
Always looking to learn more... Is it all those little black marks all around? Last edited by Destruktor77; 18-03-12 at 10:16 PM. |
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#6 |
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Ha, yeah - you edited as I was doing the picture, circled in red, they're not meant to be there
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#7 |
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Right thanks.
My '99 has done about 23k k/m and sometimes doesn't go up a gear, or slips back down into the previous gear. Could it be something like this? Sorry to Hijack this thread I'll be leaving ha-ha. |
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#8 |
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I think the usual trick seems to be to adjust the clutch cable to make sure thats ok before doing this. To be honest it came apart extremely easily, I hope it goes back together just as well
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#9 |
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The usual symptom of a notched basket is clutch drag, hence the OP sometimes finding it harder to get in and out of gear, normally neutral. It's caused by the clutch plates wearing "notches" and these prevent them sliding apart smoothly when the pressure is released.
Changes once on the move will hardly be affected as the clutch has much less influence. It's more likely to be worn selectors/detents or badly adjusted/worn/seized linkage if it's jumping out of gear. |
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#10 |
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I noticed when I was doing searches that a lot of people get advice then never come back to say what worked so in the interest of helping people in the future here is my tale....
So the clutch was disassembled & notches wet n dryed off the basket & inner hub. Its worth mentioning that theres a few washers & spacers that could be easily lost since they are mostly stuck to other parts & so could fall off when moving bits round. Once all the notches were flat again everything was put back together the way I had found it & clutch cable adjusted on the other side on lever & at sprocket & with the ignition (but not the engine) on I tried changing gears. I could get either neutral down to first & back to neutral but no higher or stuck in neutral. Nothing more so slight panic over what I'd done wrong ![]() Next day... clutch disassembled again. I decided that maybe the clutch plates were too dry from being out of the engine overnight or perhaps I'd missed a valuble part so once it was apart it was all back in again but smearing a good dose of engine oil over the plates as they were going back in & haynes manual at my side. Ignition (not engine) on & tried again. Same result. Either first & neutral or just neutral. Then it occurred to me (still on the dry plate theory) that to get them lubricated properly it may be an idea to actually start the engine. Engine started & left to run for a little while, now if I pushed the gear lever down to first I could hear the gears hitting each other as if the clutch wasn't pulled in. Clutch lifter push rod doodah behind sprocket cover removed, cleaned out, regreased, reassembled & adjusted once more (someone on here mentioned being wary of ball bearing falling out. Now I understand what they were talking about ![]() Finally smooth gear changes, I've managed to fix something that hasn't been right since I bought the bike a year ago. I'm rather proud of myself ![]() Next step.... fix the leaking clutch cover! doh! It appears to be quite common & I must admit I didn't put it on the correct methodical way or torque it up properly as I thought I may have to take it off again. So tonight that should be fixed too. Thanks Org & hopefully this will be helpful to someone in the future ![]() |
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