Dog bones and handling changes?

Before the title gets changed to AGAIN! I did a search and couldn't find anything useful.

Spoke to a guy on Sunday who mentioned that I look a little tall for riding the bike Im on (nakeed curvy) and looked a little slow at turning in (he would know since he couldn't pass me!). But thinking about it when stopped I can straddle the bike with both feet on the ground and a have a fair amount of space between the wedding tackle and the seat.

I have some progressive springs in the front and stiffened up on the preload and it feels good for me. I can turn in and feel stable in corners. 3mm coming up from the yoke.

Would raising the bike be of benefit to me in terms of handing and riding position?

Thanks

Rob

I'd recommend upgrading the standard rear shock, replacing the stock one with either an aftermarket shock or a suitable shock from a donor bike such as gsxr or zx.

My upgraded shock is 8mm longer than standard which raises the rear a little and gives more adjustment than stock so I'd say it's a better option than dog bones. Also, if you're that tall I'm guessing the standard shock is probably under sprung for your weight anyway.
Honestly there's loads of threads on here re this subject.

See the link below for compatible rear shocks and their specs (spring rates, lengths etc)
spreadsheet

If you'd still prefer to use dog bones, this thread has some useful info specific to curvy model.

Cheers for that.

I had considered that but I'd prefer not having to hack at the battery box and sorts. Nuts and bolts are ok the hacksaw is not!

That is going on that spreadsheet... What did you fit and did you need to hack away?

Rob

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Mines a pointy. Fitted a ZX10r shock (2006) with no hacking.

Originally Posted by dkid413

Mines a pointy. Fitted a ZX10r shock (2006) with no hacking.

Curvy woes

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I`ve tried lowered, standard and now raised rear on my pointy....this may sound strange but the bike came to me lowered...was a lady I got the bike from. So I removed and fitted the standard links, and now I`ve got a 25mm lift from Phil on here.....I way 14st12 and find the 25mm lift suits me best...it makes the bike turn in quicker without being twitchy or tuck in to slow corners too much. This setup might not suit everybody or inexperienced riders but I like it. I may try winding the pre-load down a notch to fine tune things.....I too like the idea of a up-graded shock but cost and insurance might be a problem.

Jack up plates messed with the suspension on my sv, I went back to standard , if you want to raise the rear get an adjustable shock I could sort you a öhlins out


Ps my bike was 50mm lower at the front and was in No way standard

Why does aftermarket shocks for most twins with resorvoirs have a remote resorvior? I know lots of people go for a zx or gsxr rear shock swap, but it's not really a good idea.... The extra heat from the exhaust warms up the Nitrogen and oil way faster then it should and gives it a to high running temp. Since most people dail their suspension in when it's cold there is alot to be wanted.... With normal riding it takes around half an hour for the damper to get up to normal running temp, a damper with an exhaust to close to it will get even warmer... This was the answer I got when I called JHS quite a few years ago when I asked if a gsxr damper was good idea, and working with both oil and nitrogen I must agree, I felt kind of stupid not thinking about it when I got my answer. Ohlins and elka have remote resorvoirs for the curvy, if they are doing it there is a bl**dy good reason for it.....
Just my 50p
Oh..sorry for ****ing on everyone with a curvy that think it's a good idea...

Originally Posted by speedyandypandy

Why does aftermarket shocks for most twins with resorvoirs have a remote resorvior? I know lots of people go for a zx or gsxr rear shock swap, but it's not really a good idea.... The extra heat from the exhaust warms up the Nitrogen and oil way faster then it should and gives it a to high running temp. Since most people dail their suspension in when it's cold there is alot to be wanted.... With normal riding it takes around half an hour for the damper to get up to normal running temp, a damper with an exhaust to close to it will get even warmer... This was the answer I got when I called JHS quite a few years ago when I asked if a gsxr damper was good idea, and working with both oil and nitrogen I must agree, I felt kind of stupid not thinking about it when I got my answer. Ohlins and elka have remote resorvoirs for the curvy, if they are doing it there is a bl**dy good reason for it.....
Just my 50p
Oh..sorry for ****ing on everyone with a curvy that think it's a good idea...

Im an ohlins damper technician and we monitor heat on the dyno and to be honest the location of the rez usually has nothing to do with heat, its to do with ease of use/space constraints, hysteresis does increase with heat, but not enough to make much diff on a bike, as the damping is so soft any way and the dampers not been asked to do alot in comparison to a car and there usually bolted to a upright with a red hot bearing and brake disc's also bolted to it so heat is just as much of a factor in cars

we do a lot of work for LMP1 teams, in the 24h races and those dampers get HOT way hotter than they would on a sv and to be honest at full working temp average jo wouldn't be able tell the difference over a cold damper.The drop off is about 10% force on high speed comp and reb at full heat

Originally Posted by barwel1992

Im an ohlins damper technician and we monitor heat on the dyno and to be honest the location of the rez usually has nothing to do with heat, its to do with ease of use/space constraints, hysteresis does increase with heat, but not enough to make much diff on a bike, as the damping is so soft any way and the dampers not been asked to do alot in comparison to a car and there usually bolted to a upright with a red hot bearing and brake disc's also bolted to it so heat is just as much of a factor in cars

I'm sure you know your dampers, by the way when are you taking a trip to Norway ? The JHS guys said that they had tested the gixer damper on one of racebikes, found it dropped of to quick.
Mike Edwards always goes a bit harder and stiffer then the perfect setup when he's setting up a bike, so that it when it drops of during a race it doesn't go to soft... I also thought a damper was built/setup with ambient temp in mind?