SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking Discussion and chat on all topics and technical stuff related to the SV650 and SV1000 Need Help: Try Searching before posting |
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#1 |
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I am going to the Ohio mile next weekend to see what i can get out of my sv650. It is an event sanctioned by the east coast timming association. It is a standing mile to see how fast you can get up to at the traps. I am trying to set a class record which i believe the sv will do. What i am looking for is any advice tuning and tweaking that i may have over looked. I would have never made it this far with out the support of this forum from the first time i changed the air filter all the way to preparing my bike for this.
So the details of what I got a 2004 sv650s with 53000 miles. hindle slip on Gearing 16/44 i will have a 15 tooth front sprocket available to change to. 60-70 psi in the tires items to remove seats mirrors rear foot pegs signals plate airfilter Maintenance to get ready new clutch plates factory pro shift kit sync throttle bodies change oil maybe 0-40w clean brakes before running with brake cleaner clean and lube chain at track Any other recommendation you guys have? I want to put the sv650 in the record books. |
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#2 |
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what sort of budget have you got ? and depends how far you want to go really?
I have no idea what rules you run under but some basics, empty your tank, stick 1 litre of juice in, ditch the headlight unit and blank the fairing apetures (you can do the same for the rear light as well), you can ditch the chain guard, smaller battery or one of those lithium ones, full exhaust system will make more power than just a slipon , cam swap, check and lube the throttle cables and adjust them up, teflon spray for wheel bearings is an easy one, ignition advance, re-map the ecu. been a fair few years since I've done anything like that and ours is 1/4 mile normally. Cheers Mark.
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#3 |
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remove the oem tool bag
![]() 520 chain, alloy lightweight rear sprocket, alu engine bolt kit, ti/alu nuts and bolts over the whole bike in general, ti rear damper spring. For just running drag I would think you could lose one of the front calipers and disc, that should be even more weight down, smaller rear break caliper and disc if they are mandatory by rules, if not remove them as well. These should be easy to do mods and with a bit of fleebaying shouldn't ruin your piggybank(with the exception of the titanium damper spring). lightweight battery, costs a bit. |
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#4 |
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what are the class regulations you need to run to?
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#5 |
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remove the air filter? I don't think so. Unless the FI can compensate for a big change like this it'll run lean as a lean thing and maybe even pop if you're lucky.
Last edited by johnnyrod; 21-09-12 at 08:50 AM. |
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#6 |
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Aerodynamics are everything.look at what you are wearing and how you tuck in.You want some sort of hump on your back to fill in the turbulance gap between you and the rear of the bike,and possibly a spoiler on your lid.
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#7 |
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This. Shedding a few ounces of weight on 520 chains and lightweight sprockets etc. isn't going to make any significant difference in a top speed event.
A while back 'Bike' magazine had a challenge to buy 3 Yamaha diversions and get them to go as fast as possible by different means (conventional engine tuning, nitrous and aerodynamics). The one that had a streamlined fairing and tail fitted was the quickest by a long way. |
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#8 |
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What's the class record stand at?
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#9 |
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I think Top Gear or someone like that did a similar thing with cars and the aerodynamics made a surprising difference in a reace where you think power/weight would be the big thing.
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#10 |
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Go for a massive poo, full body wax, wear a velo drome shaped lid
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