Dead Curvy - No electrical power.

Hi guys, I have been a member of this forum for several years and have always found the answers to any problem just by searching, however I am stuck at thbis particular problem.

I have a 2002 SV650s - Curvy. There has been no recent problems and it has run 5 days a week for years without missing a beat.
A week ago, I went out in the morning to start it up. I turned the key and nothing. No warning lights, no power. Nothing worked.

Some months ago I had a issue with the rev counter going wild and the bike running lumpy/cutting out etc. On inspection the main fuse in the starter relay was green and furry. Cleaned this out and resecured it and it has run without any further issue.
I immediately thought this would be the problem and carried out a check. While inspecting it, it pretty much fell apart. The 30A fuse was ok though.

I purchased a replacement and fitted it. Still no power. Checked and rechecked main fuse, changed it just to be on the safe side. Still nothing. Checked the fuse box under the seat, all fuses ok.
Battery recharged and checked - 12.6v. This is about my stretch on a multimeter.
I shorted the starter relay and the starter motor turned over, the neutral light glowed, but the bike didnt start.

I have since taken the bodywork off and checked/wiggled the wiring. Not a flicker from the instrument panel.
I checked the green connector in front of the airbox and the pins all look ok. I used the multimeter and put the black lead to the frame and the red lead onto the pin in the connector which comes from the red wire towards the ingition barrel. The meter read 12.4v.

Can I assume if i am getting power to the green connector from the battery side heading to the ignition/key switch that everything between the battery and green connector is ok (starter relay, main fuse, all wiring, fuse box etc). Is the problem perhaps the witing in the ignition barrel itself.

Any help would be appreciated.

I am fairly handy mechanically, but electrics have me stumped.

PS if it is the ignition/key switch, how do you get it off. The manual says Torx but they dont look like standard torx ??

[yorkie_chris]

They are security torx.

Try short Red and Orange wire in that connector on bike side. It won't start however it will tell you if there is problem in switch because neutral light will light etc.

Hi, thanks for the quick reply, I placed a wire between the red and orange (there are two orange wires, 1 thick, 1 thin) tried both, while the key was on the on position and didnt get a flicker of instrument lights.

Sorry just to confirm, i shorted the wires in the end of the conector with the pins. The side I've marked on photo?? I take it that is the bike side.

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah the side with the power there is bike side, the ignition switch doesn't have a battery in it

Would you happen to have an old indicator kicking about?

No I dont have such a thing...whats your thinking?

test lamp, lets you see if there is a live feed. old indicator or 12v lamp of any kind, 2 six feet lengths of cable. connect one to an earth on the bike, touching the other one to a live will light the bulb

[yorkie_chris]

Aye, problem is you can have voltage present but a massive resistance somewhere that does not allow power to travel.

I get what you mean with the light. I soldered two wires to either end of a car bulb. I tested it across the battery, 1 on earth, 1 on live and the light was ok.
I attached a cable to earth and touched the live side to the pin in the green connector I mentuioned above. No light. I rechecked the multimeter and the pin still registered 12v. Can I now assume the power is noy getting as far as the connector. Should I check the one leg of the main fuse and ignition fuse to see if it lights the bulb. If it doesnt what does that mean. What do I do after that???

[yorkie_chris]

Then it is wiring diagram time. Have fun

Check connector on starter relay, black one with 4 pins. Sometimes they melt and go horrible, so do main fuses.

Power goes:
battery(red) > starter relay/main fuse(still red) > ignition switch > (now orange) > from there it splits up it's different ways.

So from your test light test not lighting that says fire is not getting to red input wire on ignition connector.

So if main fuse is ok, and black connector is ok, then next place is where that red wire splits in 2 and is crimped about 4" in front of fuse box in loom.