Adjusting Clutch Biting Point?

Hi,

Just wondering my clutch bites quite far out, now i haven't looked at adjusting anything as of yet as i would rather ask then try.

How hard is it to adjust where the clutch bites?

Is it done by adjustment on the lever or actually at the engine?

Cheers
Mason

You can increase the free play on the clutch lever to change where the biting point is, this is pretty simple, pull back the rubber boot, undo the locking ring (the bit which looks like it should be an adjuster) and then turn the adjuster slightly (the other thing which you can rotate to the left of the locking ring) until you figure out which way increases the free play. Small adjustments until you get it the way you want it then redo the locking ring.

[Jason H]

Hi Mason,

The adjuster at the clutch lever is to remove slack at the lever to adjust where the biting point is you need to adjust the other end of the cable.

Have read of this thread > http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...utch+adjusting

J

Originally Posted by Jason H

Hi Mason,
The adjuster at the clutch lever is to remove slack at the lever to adjust where the biting point is you need to adjust the other end of the cable.
J

You can definitely adjust the biting point by increasing or, depending on how much freeplay you have already, decreasing slightly. Obviously you don't want no free play (you can never fully engage the clutch) or extreme amounts of free play (you can never fully disengage the clutch).

The advantage of adjusting freeplay rather than the worm adjustment is obviously you don't need to get the spanners out.

[rictus01]

there are three adjusters; the cable adjuster is on the far end of the cable and sets cable length, the worm adjuster sets biting point and the Span adjuster sets the hand span you prefer at the lever...simple

Anna's thread (linked above) is pretty spot on.

Cheers Mark.

[Sid Squid]

Adjust the clutch like this:

Originally Posted by Me! Many many times now.

Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.

The lifter and lower adjuster must be set as above, if they're not the clutch won't work properly, if you want more slack in the lever - i.e. the bite point closer to the 'bar - set the upper adjuster to suit you. Clearly the closer the lever is to the 'bar with the slack in the system taken up, the less the whole assembly will lift the clutch when you pull the remaining length of the cable, so make sure that the clutch lifts cleanly when the engine is properly hot. If it doesn't you'll need to take up the adjustment a bit further until it does.

An adjustable lever does the same thing, it does not compress all the lift into a lesser pull of the lever, it just puts the lever closer to the 'bar which means it travels less, and so pulls the cable less, less cable travel equals less clutch lift, as long as there's enough cable travel it's fine, but there's a limit to how much slack you can have - and it doesn't matter how that's done; slackened cable or adjustable lever it's all the same.

Corr this is all VERY technical to me and i used to be a car mechanic! But to be honest it does look pretty simple enough if i get down and get it all in front of me so i will have a go this saturday along with all the other bits im planning to do!

Anyone live within reasonable riding distance to east london fancy earning a drink and adjusting the clutch for me?

[rictus01]

bring it to Soho one friday evening and I'll talk you through it if you like .

Originally Posted by mase_tw

Corr this is all VERY technical to me and i used to be a car mechanic!

Please tell me you worked on BMW's.