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#1 |
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Hello guy I wonder if you can put my mind at rest I have seen some engine bolts these linked http://www.bustersclassic.co.uk/prod...asp?prod=PB003 and wondered if they are safe to use, I was just going to use stainless steel ones but I do like the look of these Thanks in advance
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#2 |
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i ive had that set on mine for six months same colour and they are fine no discolouration and i wash it every week
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#3 |
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That's great thanks for your reply
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#4 |
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Safe, yes. Better quality than original bolts? Unlikely. To your taste? Only you can say, but I'd certainly keep the originals as these sort of things don't suit everyone and can put some people off if you decide to sell down the line.
Jambo Sent without a real keyboard
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#5 |
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I am not a fan of aluminium bolts for engines, the strength is not great in aluminium when compared with steel bolts, so I used a full stainless set from Chewy's.
http://www.chewys-stuff.co.uk/ The stainless bolts are polished and look lovely as well as still being strong. |
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#6 |
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They're OK to use in non-stress situations - fairing and engine bolts for clutch case etc will be safe.
HOWEVER they're much softer than standard. If you take them off regularly you'll quickly round them off. If you don't take them out regularly you might need to drill them out. ![]() Quite a few members on here have used the coloured alloy bolts and gone back to standard or stainless for that reason. Personally, I'd use stainless. |
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#7 |
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+1 for chewies stainless bolt set.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#8 |
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Over time, aluminium will almost weld itself to steel. I learnt this to my cost when I used aluminium tyre valve caps. I went to check tyre pressures and the caps were impossible to remove. They had to be cut off with a hacksaw.
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#9 | |
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I am not a metallurgist, but I understand the process to be ionic exchange between dissimilar metals, that leads to a layer of aluminium oxide between the aluminium and the other metal. This layer is significantly thick and will seize the joint or thread, however a good coat of copper grease should prevent this from happening. Aluminium is highly reactive anyway and will almost instantly react with atmospheric oxygen, so will always have a thin oxide layer. My concern with using aluminium engine bolts is the need to have them tight, but also having the ability to reuse the bolts after engine work. A high quality Allen key is also needed to ensure that the head is not damaged because the soft metal is far easier to ruin that a good stainless one. |
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