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#1 |
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Any help/advice appreciated
So....... Only do a very limited mileage each year on the road and last year the last October run out ended with no battery power following a stop for a cuppa and a trailer home. Bike has sat in the garage over the winter and in last week have attempted to fettle. Battery - now charged and good 13.5V charged and spins the bike up on the button and runs fine However, no charge coming through once running, volts on start up drop to 12.8 and then dropping further. Revving the bike makes little difference and I think charging volts should be up towards 14, they are not Changed reg/reg and no difference so thinking stator next. Is there a test I can do for this or what is likely to need replacing? I think I have basically been running total loss last year, 30 min or so spins out and then back on the optimate have hidden the problem, it's a daytime MOT so no lights or indicators. The cuppa break and restart in the October run must have been too much. |
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#2 |
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new battery time
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#3 |
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Ok - so battery not accepting charge when bike running is likely to be a duff battery rather than charge not reaching it due to other charging component fault?
I will swap out battery from my other bike and check, but why would the battery take a good charge (13.5v) from optimate if duff? |
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#4 |
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a duff battery will take a charge but slowly discharge without being connected so look ok.
failing that and you have a new REC/REG then its a case of checking the rest of the bike for wiring faults which are usually corroded connectors. check the voltage output at the stator check the voltage at the rec/reg check the voltage at the battery |
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#7 |
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Thanks all - to continue the multi bike make theme, I tested the battery on my CBR600 and all good, 12.9V not running, 14.1v running.
Swapped this battery to the SV and only getting 12.4 running, so I think SV battery is fine and new reg/rec is fine, although looks like not actually needed - whoops Will look into stator tests as above |
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#8 |
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Another quick stator test:
Set you multimeter to the continuity setting(Mine has a buzzer) which is the lowest resistance setting.Now check the yellow Stator wires/pins 1/2 1/3 2/3.They should all beep or show resistance below one ohm.If not a coil or coils has gone ,"Open" and it's time for a new Stator. I saved this link from a search, http://www.bbbikeshop.co.uk/acatalog...ternators.html but not sure yet which stators go with which model.We could do a with a list making using the,"G" numbers.For example the Stators for my old CDI Honda CX500s were a,"G47" type.
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"Stultus est sicut stultus facit" Last edited by R1ffR4ff; 10-04-17 at 11:14 AM. |
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