Power hungry modders, help please.

Gawd, I've waited weeks to ask this!!!!!!!!

Just want to know the views of folks who have done the woodruff key mod to advance the ignition.

Obviously, seems a pretty effective and cheap way of getting a healthy hike in torque and bee aitchh pees across the revrange. Just what I would like. Current setup is race can, pipercross filter, jetted with 138main, dyno'd at 71.3bhp, extra tooth on the rear. Does anything need changed to compliment it, and what does it 'feel' like in use.

I know about the rotor puller causing probs, so did you do the job yourselves or take it to the garage? BTW, how much is the tool, any ideas? Even better (he says, chancing his arm ), has anyone still got the puller!


Oh yeah, can i get away with unleaded or is it to be super every time?

Originally Posted by haggis

Gawd, I've waited weeks to ask this!!!!!!!!

Just want to know the views of folks who have done the woodruff key mod to advance the ignition.

Obviously, seems a pretty effective and cheap way of getting a healthy hike in torque and bee aitchh pees across the revrange. Just what I would like. Current setup is race can, pipercross filter, jetted with 138main, dyno'd at 71.3bhp, extra tooth on the rear. Does anything need changed to compliment it, and what does it 'feel' like in use.

I know about the rotor puller causing probs, so did you do the job yourselves or take it to the garage? BTW, how much is the tool, any ideas? Even better (he says, chancing his arm ), has anyone still got the puller!


Oh yeah, can i get away with unleaded or is it to be super every time?

I've got the Woodruff key fitted amd it makes a small and subtle difference. It's certainly not mind-bending but the torque curve is definitely a lot fatter lower down. Now I ride a naked curvy and have a 46 tooth rear sprocket, now with the ignition advanced I can now pull serious power-wheelies in first at just 3k revs. The low down punch is a lot of fun if that's your bag.

Did I fit it? Well... kinda. I had the inestimable help of Sid Squid, and I thought it was a right bugger to do. I used Northwind's rotor puller (cheers Andy) but it was still very fiddly and took an amazing hour and half to get the job done. You'll deffo need a new gasket, a lot of patience, and will probably need to file down the key a tiny bit to make sure it fits (though it has to be tight).

I often run on 97/98 RON fuel but also have used 95 without the slightest problem - Sid Squid seems to think that 95 is more than adequate.

Would I do it again? Hmm, not sure.

The other "performance" mod that I've literally just done this afternoon is the R6 throttle tube which gives a fifth turn as opposed to the SV's standard quarter. Comes on the power soooo much quicker and wheelies in first are now almost unavoidable if you have a clumsy hand .


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Yes, the R6 tube is another on my winter to-do list along with fork mods.

I have the key and gasket waiting, just wanted some feedback incase the Super U/L was majorly important - only two Super U/L pumps on the island and would make touring a nightmare too.

Hmm, power wheelies without trying you say - what a terrible side-effect. Maybe you should ask for a refund. LOL.

[northwind]

I like it a lot... And in theory I own the rotor puller, though I don't actually know who has it now I found it fairly straightforward to do- Haggis, you'd walk it I think- and the gains are well worth it. Apparently it becomes counterproductive on a more tuned bike- the big HP SV race bikes often run a degree or two of ignition retard, apparently. If I do any more engine work, I'm going to pull mine and see what happens.

But for a reasonably stock street bike, I reckon it's great, especially for urban riding. I don't think mine did a thing for top end but more torque everywhere else is always nice.

Having said that, if you're on standard cams I'd say the money would be better put towards doing the K3 cam swap- it's around £130 but gives bigger results.

You're right to point out it's not a top end rush thing. But living in the twisties with next to no big open roads, I think it's a good start as far as internal tuning work goes for my day-to-day needs.

Now, you have me wondering though. What's the K3 cam swap all about, news to me.

[northwind]

Pretty straightforward... You put a set of K3 intake cams (£120) into the intake side, and use the old intake cams as exhaust cams. None of the marks line up for the rear, but apart from that it's surprisingly easy. Depending on who you ask, between 2 and 7bhp at the top. I'd say I lost a little in the lower mids, but the power comes on earlier and stays to the redline. The higher peak is nice, but the wider peak is better.

It does make the bike sound rougher- much more of a snarl to it, as pposed to a growl. Sounds good to me, but it make my old exhaust system so loud, I ended up selling it

Originally Posted by jonboy

Now I ride a naked curvy and have a 46 tooth rear sprocket.

Just out of curiosity, what is the standard no. of teeth on the curvy model? I've gone one down on the front and two up on the rear, but don't even know what I started with.

S = 15/44
N = 15/45

So if you've gone down one on the front and up two on the rear then that's approximately equal to a five teeth increase on the rear which is pretty insane! You must be changing up into second at about 15 mph .


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Originally Posted by jonboy

S = 15/44
N = 15/45

So if you've gone down one on the front and up two on the rear then that's approximately equal to a five teeth increase on the rear which is pretty insane! You must be changing up into second at about 15 mph .


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To be honest, the difference in gear change times is minimal... but she takes off like a rocket now. Waiting at lights, if you find the bite, you can feel her twitching.

Originally Posted by jonboy

So if you've gone down one on the front and up two on the rear then that's approximately equal to a five teeth increase on the rear which is pretty insane! You must be changing up into second at about 15 mph .

And looking for a 7th gear at around 80mph. :P