rotor is stuck, advise please...

I bought a M20x1,5 to pull the rotor off to install the ignition advancer, but it won't move... I greased the bolt en pulled with every mouscle in my body but the rotor just won't move (almost flipped my bike of the paddockstand). lucky I still can get the bolt out...

anyone got an advise?

HOW NOT TO DO THIS
Here is what I had to do, but I would wait for Rictus/Sid Squid/Embee, etc to clarify, and do not take this as solid advice....

You may need to stop the gears? under the clutch caseing, as they have a little give in them enough to stop cause the problem you have (if it is the same as mine). Basically stick something solid in and stop the gears rotateing on each other then try the rotor puller.

Note removeing the clutch caseing you will need a new gasket for that.

Also make sure you are using a long braker bar, etc, but it does take a lot of pressure to do this.

[TSM]

Ok, i guess the rotor puller actualy works if you keep threading it in, the presure will pop the thing off. I dont think you pull on it.

[Sid Squid]

Assuming you have a suitable method for restraining the rotor - and wedging something in the starter reduction gear isn't - then a sharp tap with a hammer on the spanner* that you're using to turn the puller is the way to go - don't gorilla it, just a firm sharp tap.

*NOT a ratchet or breaker bar, a well fitting spanner only.

ok, I tried with a longer wrench and hits of a hamer (with the help of my brother) but nothing helps... I don't want to brake the thread of my bolt or rotor because then I am in Big trouble...

the bolt I am using is 90mm long and because of this length I put a wrong couple onto the bolt which causes wrong forces onto the rotor and can brake something or shouldn't I be scared of that?

the strange thing is, that I can keep turning my rotor, even with my bike is in 5th gear en there is a peace of wood in between my wheel and swingarm... I don't want to do sudox's trick, which can cause bad wear on the teeth of the rotor and damage it (or do I get it wrong?)

or maybee I am just too secure...

[northwind]

Yeah, I had that too- erven in top with the wheel locked, it'd still turn. Eventually, I attached a very large adjustable wrench to the rotor, on the two flat faces, and used that to secure it- once I did that it came away in moments.

Yes, I know using an adjustable for anything other than building flat pack furniture is punishable by death. In my defence, it's a pretty good one, and it was the middle of the night and I was ****ed off

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

Assuming you have a suitable method for restraining the rotor - and wedging something in the starter reduction gear isn't - then a sharp tap with a hammer on the spanner* that you're using to turn the puller is the way to go - don't gorilla it, just a firm sharp tap.

*NOT a ratchet or breaker bar, a well fitting spanner only.

Thankyou Dr Squid!

See, told you I was wrong, but I was doing this on a knackered engine, which wasnt attached to a frame, rear wheel, and we didnt care about it!

*Wonders how he got the idea the engine was already broken and on the deck
Dan

I had to cut a slice in mine with a dremel and then wedge a chisel in to open it enough for the puller to pull it off
I did have a spare however and i think it was mainly to do with the fact i had nothing to hold the rotor properly, if i did, i think it would have come off no probs

Moral of the story, have the correct tools for the job

thanks northwind, your trick helped! althou I used a 32mm wrench wich luckily got stuck behind my frameslider so i didn't had to put force on it ... on big twist of the arm and it come off

stupid of my i didn't think of it more early... but thanks anyway