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#1 |
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I'm swapping my rear disc from the old wheel to the new one.
Wouldn't you know it. Those are really, really tight bolts aren't they? After a good haul they came off with a suitable loud 'CRAAAAACK!'. Well it had to happen...... Just easing them on the new wheel bit-by-bit and they're getting mighty tight with a 1/8" still to go. Then one bolt does the one thing you don't want it to. I've snapped it's damn head off. "Oh .................. you ****ing *****rd!!!!!" ![]() |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: South London
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Can't understand that
![]() Did you clean off all the loc-tite ? and the thread it was going into ? surely you tried running the bolts in first, and run a tap threw if it's to tight or is that just me? Never mind lesson learned, did you manage to get the bolt out? got a spare bolt? Cheers Mark
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#3 |
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Well, i tried an M8 allen bolt in first. Went in by hand no probs, BUT it was shorter by 1/8" than the disc bolt.
![]() It gets worse, BTW. I decided to take them all out and clean up with a tap. Yup, one other snapped it's head upon removal. This, i think, was inevitable!!!! My guess is that when the powdercoaters sandblasted the wheel, they didnt get all the sand out the threads, so when it was put in the stove it's baked it on - right, deep in the bolthole??? I know now i should have tapped it to begin with but what a right pain in the proverbial. You wanna see the mess of the threads of the ones i did get out. It's bizarre. Threads are fine except the first few turns on the tip are GONE! Is it safe for me to re-tap the lot at M10 instead? The discs can take that size. Otherwise, i'm looking at a fecked wheel, yeah? ![]() ![]() |
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#4 |
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bugger! these things are sent to test us.
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#5 | |
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Would seem fine to me. Make sure it's a standard "course" M10 metric though and not a fine pitch since the alloy is far better with a substantial thread. Would be wise to use threadlock upon reassembly too. Good luck sir. Garry ![]() |
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