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#1 |
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done all i can for the bloody front breaks! and they still wont stop me fast enough! no matter how hard i pull on the lever the front wont lock up or make the bike stoppie!
braided lines rebuilt calipers rebuilt master cylinder bled and bled and bled and......you get the idea! please someone help me out. oh and no sugestions of up rating....ive no money as i have no job right now. cheers. |
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#2 |
Member
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What on earth do you want? Why would you want the front wheel to lock? However, could be your discs, the only thing you havent changed!
I reckon go out and buy a bike with better brakes...not BREAKS!! ![]() |
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#3 |
John T
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Shrewsbury, Shrops, UK
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I found HH pads in my Curvy helped.
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#4 |
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disks were changed!
and thanks for the spelling lesson! |
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#5 | |
Guest
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to know the front brakes could lock rather than do nothing would be good. |
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#6 |
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I put a GSXR front end on, just for the brakes
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#7 |
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That's probably not entirely helpful. Have you changed pads? Cleaned and deglazed them? Tried another one the same on a spurious test ride from a dealer to see if they work any better? (not endorsing it, just saying it happens, y'know
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#8 |
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could i ask how do you deglaze em with emory paper or summit can you do that to the discs too
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#9 |
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I've never actually had to do it, never had a glazed pad to deglaze
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#10 |
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Are you breaking them in correctly (no pun intended). Most pads and rotors have a specific break-in procedure to burnish them. Also, did you rebuild the parts yourself or did you purchase them as remanufactured? Either way the quality can really suffer, it's sometimes worth it just to get new replacement parts. (Especially when it comes to master cylinders, if the bore is even slightly overlarge the seals wont do their job and you'll get nothing but sponge). Finally, how did you bleed your master cylinder and calipers? Most master cylinder's have a bench-bleed procedure (prior to mounting on the bike). Also, you have to make sure that the bleeder screw is at the highest point of the caliper when bleeding a dry system, or you'll get air trapped in the interior of the caliper. Even with all those precautions, bleeding can be extremely tedious and need to be repeated occasionally for weeks before you'll get all the air out. Good luck getting it sorted out!
PS - if your pads are glazed they're essentially junk. Glazing comes about when you've overheated the pad (generally from not following proper break-in procedures) and the "glue" that holds the friction material together actually boils to the surface of the pad. |
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