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#1 |
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I took loads of pictures while fitting the emulators so for the good (or humour) of the masses here they are! Maybe someone will find something useful in amongst all the junk. Thanks to my friend Rich for providing much of the tools, space and sanity and to all the orgers for advice
![]() 1. Emulators loosened up 2. Tightened up to 'just touching', the measurement on my terrible vernier is 30.5mm 3. Tightened up 2 1/2 turns to 28.5mm. 4. Locknut tightened up. I didn't use threadlock here but probably should have! I'm going to take a look when I take them out to adjust anyway... 5. Checking the height of the emulator (14mm, not 24mm!) to see how much to take off the preload spacer. 6. Off with the forks! The cap was loosened while still in the bike (after also loosening the top yoke clamps) and then undone off the bike. 7. Preload spacer popping up... 8. Tipping out the oil, washer and spring 9. I used a vice to first crack the (*$%@ing!) damping rod bolt... 10. ...then desperately tried everything (including the whittled broom method, shown) to remove the bolt without spinning the internals. All failed, so the local bike shop used their windy gun on it for me after I'd put all the internals back in. Out in seconds - highly recommended! 11. Trimming down the preload spacer by 14 (not 24!) mm 12. Before and after drilling out the holes from 8mm to 10mm. I used a hand drill for this so not the neatest of finishes, but it worked just fine. 13. The damping rods drilled and cleaned up with a small warding file. It took me ages to get all the tiny bits of swarf out from the inside of the rod! I then cleaned it up using emery paper, white spirit then finally IPA. 14. I used J-B weld to seal the rebound holes. The directions stated that the epoxy could be cured at higher temperature so I plonked them in the oven at 50C for a couple of hours before reassembly 15. The order of the fork internals before assembly... 16. I used the bike as a clamp to torque up the damping rod bolt 17. Fork oil level set to 104mm... EDIT: Oil level should be set without the internals, but I set it with the emulator in for the sake of consistency. 18. Bike before reassembly. It's a good look ![]() Last edited by 85jas; 09-04-12 at 12:01 PM. |
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#2 |
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There are some hilarious photo's but its a good write up
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We're riding out tonight to case the promised land Make everyday count RIP Reeder - Jolly Green Giant and comedy genius |
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#3 |
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Well done, a picture is better than a thousand words.
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#4 |
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What are the base settings for the emulator? A helpfully friend of mine twiddled them before I put mine in. Thank you.
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#5 |
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Thanks all
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#6 |
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no need to use threadlock, they look like nyloc nuts.
Whats with the helmet? Just back in from chopping down a few trees? ![]() Another top tip, instead of cutting down your original preload spacers (which is fine by the way), I use a piece of steel tubular table leg from B&Q to make varying lengths. Before you strip your forks down, work out wether or not the existing preload is suitable, if not adjust first. Then when you come to make the custom spacers, add the emulator thickness as you've done but then add (or subtract) whatever is necessary to bring the preload adjusters back to the mid range of their adjustment. You can then do the maths and cut custom spacers to suit, leaving the originals alone in case you need to revert back. Last edited by flymo; 02-04-12 at 09:24 PM. |
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#7 |
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Lol that is in fact the chainsaw kit... Health and Safety flymo
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#8 |
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Thank you.
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#9 |
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Thx for the write-up. How are you finding them?
104mm oil level? Where did you get that? I set mine at 130mm. Also I didn't cut my spacer. |
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#10 |
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Looks like its about to turn into a hover bike with the front wheel and forks off
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