ignition retarder

Originally Posted by Fuzz

Possibly for the FI bikes?

Yep it was.

Will this work on a K4 SV650S??????

thx

In a word no you need a TRE type mod for K3 onwards a 6.8K resistor works well on my SV which is the same as my Busa.

quickest cheapest mod on my bike, a bit more power in 2 and 3.

Carb adjustment and synch was more helpful.

Anyone who loses power after the snip made a discrepancy somewhere that needs tracking down.

[northwind]

I've heard- and don't quote me, this is very second hand- that the injected models use a different map in different gears- and the TRE bypasses this, so while it gets rid of the retard it can impair performance...

Originally Posted by BIKER-DENE

One wire is a common earth (black with a white stripe in the diagram); one detects neutral (blue); and the remaining two wires (red with a yellow stripe and green with a blue stripe) detect 2nd and 3rd and go to the ignition controller. It is these two wires that we have to cut or disconnect.

The wiring we need to gain access to is located on the left side of the bike, near the airbox, where there is a rubber boot that covers a 4-pin connector.

Slide the rubber boot forwards to gain access to the connector. The 4 wires entering the connector from the rear are from the gearbox. The red wire with a yellow stripe and the green wire with a blue stripe are the two wires we need to disconnect.

In this case, the 4-pin connector has been dismantled and the relevant contacts removed from one half, rather than just cutting the wires. Either way, it is important to insulate the bare ends. Heat shrink sleeving is preferable, or some self-amalgamating tape that most DIY shops sell. Electrical insulation tape is pretty useless as it tends to fall off when it gets hot.

just seen this, i think i might try it

[Viney]

Dont Bother, Its Does Nothing!

[ScottishRawker]

what would be the best way to go about finding out if the TRE does impair performance?

looking at this thread it seems that bikes that are restricted notice the difference more than unrestricted.

Originally Posted by Viney

Dont Bother, Its Does Nothing!

does'nt it

Ok, for the carbed bikes it is easier to simply remove the wires from the CDI under the pillion seat. No stuffing around removing riders seat, lifting tank etc. Same deal remove pins from plug and tape or cut, up to you. This mod allows full ignition advance in 2nd & 3rd gear where it was previously retarded slightly.

EFI bikes, you will see TREs and 'smart' TREs advertised. The 650 is still only retarded in 2nd & 3rd gear but with the EFI you also have to consider your cold idle circuit. A smart TRE can be made up yourself or by someone with some electrical nouse. The key is that the signal to let it know it is in neutral must be restored (not as simple a job as just removing 2 wires as per carbed models). This will allow the bike to go through the cold idle circuit and operate normally when starting. If this is not done it is like operating a carbed bike without the choke, the idle needs to be increased to prevent stalling and all manner of other pains.

One of these can be made up, complete with plugs to make it 'plug 'n play' for less than $10AUD. If anyone is asking more than 15-20 pounds for one I would suggest that they are full of the proverbial.