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#11 |
Noisy Git
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CBR has same problem, no comp adjustment. But it has different fixed bleed.
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#12 |
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I had an idea today that if the comp is too soft, would it be a good idea to use a denser fork oil and adjust the rebound accordingly?
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#13 |
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No, not in my opinion. I would stick with a quality synthetic 5w like rsf5 or hpx5 and adjust the bleeds to suit.
If you were like, reet proper geeky you could measure needle in kawa fork and see what equivalent area is of needle when at 1 turn out and work out a bleed hole from that... Or just ride it and see what it's like, the pistons might have a fixed bleed anyway.
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#14 | |
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#15 |
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That's what I would do. If you have proper rate springs, chances are the damping will be pretty good, and you can adjust it by the method you thought of. Within reason. It won't perhaps be a perfectly tuned setup for racing, but I bet you can make it work well.
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#16 |
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Yeah not looking for a lap record, just better road handling! After going from the glue like speed four to the not so glue like SV, hopefully this mod will give me some better feedback from the road.
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#17 |
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Nah you won't find owt in manual. According to the manuals the insides of a cartridge are "not user serviceable" lol.
Fixed bleed means there is a way for oil to bypass the comp piston and exit the cartridge without flexing the shims out of the way, this gives you your low speed compliance and without it the fork will feel like a brick. As stock on zxr then hollow bottom bolt allows oil to pass to comp needle valve... however on a lot of forks with stock shimming you can close comp right off without owt bad happening... as the fork has a bypass inside like some cuts on the face of the pistons. Can you get comp valve out of bottom of cartridge?
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#18 |
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Update Time!
So got the SV forks apart, easiest job in the world! Could not believe how quickly they came apart. ![]() ![]() ![]() I reckon i'll be painting the fork legs as they do look a bit flaky! ![]() My one notable point is the size of the Damper bolt (ie the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg) It's a 6mm hex, and the ZX6R is a 10mm hex..... I have a feeling I will be drilling out the SV fork leg to accommodate the ZX6R Damper rod bolt. Starting off from where I last was, I took the springs out and assessed the situation. ![]() ![]() ![]() I knew my dad would have the answer to get the cartridge out, so a trip down the road to the old mans workshop was required ( No "tribal wall paintings" in his man cave ![]() ![]() Turns out the perfect solution was the end of a pinch clamp! Fitted perfectly into the square hole and held it in place while I undid the damping rod bolt. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Action shot of the brains behind the solution! ![]() Still lots of the lovely smelly black stuff ![]() I have a feeling that the fork seal was about to give, I'll be replacing them anyway ![]() Now, as we were cleaning up, this random bit appeared, but we could only find one? It fitted perfectly into the bottom end of the fork tube, but it didn't appear to be there before (look at the pic down the fork). I've checked through the OEM part diagrams online and can't see anything like it? My dad / brother does have a mustang project on the go,but it just seemed to be too good a fit to be a part of a 60's muscle car! ![]() ![]() Any ideas where on earth it came from and what it does? Should there only be one or have I lost the other somewhere? ![]() Hoping to get back into the garage soon to see about the damping rod bolt situation, stay tuned for updates! ![]() |
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#19 |
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It's the oil lock piece - they're on the fiche and in the manual.
There should be one in each leg.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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#20 |
Noisy Git
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They get stuck in oil in bottom of leg sometimes
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