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#11 |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: In the garage where I belong
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My breaker was £19 off EBay, very simple but it works, just a big braced lever. I tried shovels, bits of wood etc but I weigh 9 stone so I needed a VERY long lever
![]() I also picked up a No-Mar tyre bar, which is great, though pretty expensive. It makes it easy, I'm too feeble for normal levers but this thing reduces the risk of scraping the rim to about zero and it's quick, too. I'd say without any fear that I'm less likely to mark the wheels than any of the garages I've ever used, using this thing, there's absolutely no metal-on-metal contact. The only reason I got the setup was because I was planning to use race take-offs for trackdays. And then shortly after, I decided to stop doing them ![]()
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" Last edited by northwind; 28-10-07 at 04:47 PM. |
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#12 |
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I put a set on after getting the wheels powdercoated.
I had polished rims before that and the fitters usually said 'Ooooh, we cant be certain not to mark them, so it's up to you. Shall we go ahead?' Typical, just covering their arses.... ![]() So this time i thought feckit, if I scratch em it's all my own fault. First time i've done it. No big drama, all done in 40mins. I do have car biased levers tho, which helps get the last bit over the rim. Used a portable compressor after that. I've not taken a set off yet, so breaking the bead might defeat me. I do know someone with a proper breaker I could borrow if need be. |
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#13 |
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SV: tyre place does it; I'm a coward.
All my other bikes with *tubed* tyres: I do it. Washing-up liquid as lube? NO! Full of salts which may corrode your rims. I have a jar full of goo made from pure soap flakes (Dreft, all say aaah), disolved in water. I brush this on liberally where required. |
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#14 |
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#15 |
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Nice. Well until you reach 7 minutes and 50 odd minutes when he turns the wheel round to see LOADS of paint chippping! He he he. Bet the music covered up a lot of cursing.
Think when the time is right I will give it a go. I have to practise on some old spoked wheels first anyway. |
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#16 |
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I've found wheel balance weights on fleabay at a very reasonable price too.
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#17 |
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Don't forget to report back and tell us if it can be done as easily as shown in the video; inquiring minds want to know. That chap seems to be changing the tire as fast as someone with a machine.
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#18 |
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- Always thake the discs off first!
- Remove the inner valve to allow full deflation - Prop on blocks of wood/a doorstep and use a spade to break the bead. - Use fairly liquid or tyre soap to do the lubing on the removal and fitting. (I am not convinced by what chunky said, as I have used fairy liquid for years and never had a tyre spinning problem - including track/race use!! ![]() - Leave the inner valve out and use a double barrelled footpump to get the tyre back on the bead. As long as the inner valve is still out you get enough puff, I have actually found forecourt (petrol station) pumps lacking in initial puff, so not sure that is a great solution (you also need to get the wheel there ![]() - Once the tyre has popped on its bead, you can re-insert the inner valve and pump up normally!! I have popped a tyre on the bead by igniting lighter fluid in the tyre before now (saw it once on top-gear ![]() ![]() - Balancing is as described - axle stands (two stools or whatever) and the wheel spindle ... Once practised, it is easy enough to do, why pay £20 for some yoof to take big chunks out of your rim down ATS when you can do that perfectly well yourself in the comfort of your own home??!? ![]() Last edited by Blue_SV650S; 28-10-07 at 09:37 PM. |
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#19 |
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Oh and better add, I don't use washing up liquid neat - I uses a 'solution' ... not as thin as washing up mix, prolly about 1/2 way between washing up and neat ... if people are using neat, that might be why they are getting a spinning problem?!?!
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#20 |
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