Caliper questions

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by Sally

Another here...

Bikes only got >2K on the clock, bought in August.

Has sat for a few weeks as Aberdeen resembled the north pole.

Took it home, and fixing it today, brakes aren't too bad.
There is some crud around pistons, but once I pumped them out a bit it was just on the edge, so cleaned it off with a small piece of wood. Copper grease on the two pins. That right? I am not completely splitting them as I don't think its needed, and I am not also bleeding the system.

Red rubber grease around the outside of the pistons?
I never used brake cleaner on this at all, as someone said on here that it damages the seals. Just used some WD40, that won't cause any damage will it?

Cheers

Don't use WD40 near the brakes (unless they're stripped and being washed out afterwards)

Sally, RRG (Red Rubber) around the pistons won't do out, best to strip the brakes clean them properly and RRG during assembly.

Rear is a case of splitting if its dragging and doing the same.

You running all weathers mate?

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by barwel1992

well i will salute you if you can "split" pointy callipers

Tenner says I can in under 10 minutes.
Just done a seized curvy rear in 10 minutes piston out too.

[dirtydog]

Originally Posted by barwel1992

left handed drill, or use a easy out very very carefully

Hmmmm rarely get a good outcome with easy outs. They should be called " it may work but more than likely it'll snap off and be a nightmare to get I outs"

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by dirtydog

Hmmmm rarely get a good outcome with easy outs. They should be called " it may work but more than likely it'll snap off and be a nightmare to get I outs"

has it snapped flush in the casting?

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

Tenner says I can in under 10 minutes.
Just done a seized curvy rear in 10 minutes piston out too.

cough* cough* pointys have a solid sliding calliper's front and back so as i said id like to see you split a pointy calliper

and from another post, sally has a pointy ...

[dirtydog]

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

has it snapped flush in the casting?

Yep

Originally Posted by dirtydog

Yep

is it corroded in ?

if so i would heat it up, soak in penetrative and the get a left handed drill bit on it, hopefully it should screw it out while drilling it

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by dirtydog

Yep

Would suggest a reverse tap and die, but that sounds stupid.

Errm could try contact adhesive'ing a screw driver to it, but that may fubar the caliper, or as barwel suggested

[dirtydog]

Not corroded in, I even put copper grease on it when I serviced the caliper so shouldn't be too tight in there

[yorkie_chris]

Careful drilling it if it comes to that, you don't want to knacker the seat, helps to have an intact nipple to compare depths.

You can TIG something to it and turn that, left handed drill is good too.

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

Tenner says I can in under 10 minutes.
Just done a seized curvy rear in 10 minutes piston out too.

Way to completely miss the joke there andrew

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

Would suggest a reverse tap and die, but that sounds stupid.

Errm could try contact adhesive'ing a screw driver to it, but that may fubar the caliper, or as barwel suggested

Do you actually think about this before you post it?

You could try gluing a screwdriver to it, but if the 6mm or so of steel didn't move it, what makes you think 2mm of brittle glue will make owt other than a mess?