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#31 |
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Colour the bar in with a permanent marker and fix the boxes at a high angle on the bar and screw them together , then rotate them to the right position very slowly ..... the nipples will cut a clear line through the permanent marker and the end point is where you spot drill your hole
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#32 |
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Thanks! This looks like is going to take a lot more time than I anticipated
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#33 |
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Should take 2 hours tops mate , and that is with brews and admiring your own work , oh ..... and enjoy bleeding those brakes ....... Snigger .
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#34 |
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If you add the extra trips at Screwfix for the security bits to undo those bolts, to HG for a replacement pair of heated grips (first ones were busted) it all adds up. But I very much enjoy it and with your guidance I should get there by the end of the day.lol
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#35 |
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If you were nearer I would come and do it for you .
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#36 |
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#37 |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Dundee
Posts: 4,414
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Faired vs Naked clutch cables
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#38 |
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I used the old clip ons to measure the distance and then a blob of tippex on the nipple to get the orientation right.
I then punched the bar with a very sharp punch to stop the drill skidding. Then drilled 2 5mm holes. The bars are very hard, and my 12 volt dewalt cordless wasn't up to it. I switched to the 240V drill and it was a lot easier. Swarf goes everywhere so use a cover. Bleeding the breaks is a total basteward. It took me ages with a mityvac vaccum pump, but I eventually got them rock solid. I had air trapped in the master cylinder, that I removed by tapping it with a screw driver handle. All my advice came from here, especially from Phil "SPECIALONE". The only thing I couldn't replicate was I had to remove the air box and he didn't. Don't be tempted to use the OEM throttle cables, defo use the replacements. At full lock they are just too tight. |
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#39 |
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Any advice on adjusting / tensioning the throttle cable?
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#40 |
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I didn't need to really. Just put the gap on the screw tensions as close to the ones coming off and stuck em on. Worked fine.
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