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#1 |
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Is there a way of fitting the pointy oil cooler to a curvy?
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I don't know a lot of detail about the pointy, but I doubt it, not easily anyway. There are bosses on the cases which would probably allow you to achieve it but would require machining to accept threaded connectors.
On the other hand................. I fitted a water/oil heat exchanger (might call it a cooler but it is a bit more than that) from a Kawa ZX6 on my curvey. ![]() ![]() There are a few issues to consider. 1 - Suzuki insist on perversely using an odd thread for their filters, M20x1.0 . I couldn't find an off the shelf extended adapter with this thread, places like this do extension bolts in various other threads, so I had to make my own. I did consider using a different thread so I could use different filters (e.g. OE Yaris filters can be had for £6, use 3/4"UNF thread) but stuck to the Suzuki one. I did end up altering one stub on the cooler from this picture due to the hose being a touch too close to the cases. ![]() 2 - the bypass coolant hose on the curvey isn't gated (the thermostat doesn't close it off when open) so can be diverted through the cooler, but teh stub at the water pump is restricted with a 4mm drilling which (I found) didn't flow enough through the cooler, so I opened that out to 6mm which is the bore of the stub. You can safely divert coolant flow in practice, I have done tests on big 300kW engines and the flow can safely be reduced below what manufacturers use without exceeding critical metal temperatures. 3 - I have achieved a slight improvement in warm-up, but the outcome has been that for 99% of normal road use it is a complete waste of effort! At 70mph the oil runs at near enough coolant temp anyway, somewhere in the 80-85C range typically, which is just about right. For higher speed it would be a benefit, or more strictly higher revs. I haven't done extensive measurements, my meter will only record one channel at a time, but I haven't seen any significant benefit under most circumstances to date. The alternative would be a sandwich offtake adapter (see the earlier link) and an oil/air cooler, I would suggest a thermostatically controlled version to avoid running with cold oil in cooler weather. You would need an extension bolt.
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"Artificial Intelligence is no match for natural stupidity" Last edited by embee; 05-11-10 at 01:24 AM. |
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that is one Very clean engine/downpipe emby, makes mike look like a pile of rust my down pipe is that dirty.
How did you clean it that well? Harthat_harry, why dont you buy a pointy motor and drop that into the curvy? (if it'll fit) you'll get FI as well then too. |
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![]() Quote:
I'm certain it can be done but it's closer to a pointy with a curvy fame at that point ![]() Jambo
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It isn't quite a simple as that though, you need to divert the flow from the existing passages to the cooler at some point, either before or after the filter. I haven't got the equivalent diagram for the pointy but this is the curvey circuit. Looking at the bosses on the case I suspect you could use the 2 at the filter mount but you would need to close off the supply into the filter chest. I'd still recommend a th'stat, cold oil isn't good. (Edit - looking at this pic it's probably easier than I thought, you just need to machine the bosses for pipe unions and plug the entry drilling into the filter chest at the top) ![]() The easiest aftermarket version is the sandwich plate which fits between the case and filter, this diverts the flow through the cooler before the filter and no mods are required to the engine system. Thermostatically controlled versions allow the oil straight through until it gets hot then the th'stat diverts it to the cooler. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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"Artificial Intelligence is no match for natural stupidity" Last edited by embee; 05-11-10 at 01:43 PM. |
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#7 |
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Edit. Scrap that,
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#9 |
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Dyzio racing performance, keeps the engine at optimal temperature
Harry Hel to a oil cooler kit but dont spec the model, try speaking to them as they should know http://helperformance.com/store/prod...oducts_id=3212
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