The Cycling Thread

My comfort issues continue on the pig.

I got the bike back from the menders today. I dropped it off as its been clicking like mad when I pedal. I assumed it was the BB so I put it in to my LBS for them to diagnose, they simply replaced the BB, the clicking remains as badly as before. That'll be the pedals that need attention then!!, I assume the mechanic didn't even pedal the bike. SO time to try a new LBS next time.

Anyway this brings me to a question, can I rebuild Shimano SPD SL pedals? i.e. pull them to bits and regrease them, or do I just bin them and get some new ones? Its driving me completely mental so needs to be fixed.

The comfort issuse remains but my fizik aliente turned up today so i'll try and do some miles on that, see if it makes any difference.

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by Jackie_Black

Anyway this brings me to a question, can I rebuild Shimano SPD SL pedals? i.e. pull them to bits and regrease them, or do I just bin them and get some new ones? Its driving me completely mental so needs to be fixed.
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Yes, you should be able to strip them down, I don't know which sort you have.

Sure its not a chain, jockey wheels or rear hub clicking?

Crap service from your LBS

They are the cheapest Shimano SPD SL pedals (white). Only a year old, its definitely something on the drivetrain. I assumed the BB as its 4 years old but apparently not as thats new. Unless they just wiped it as its exactly the same one they replaced it with!

[maviczap]

Is it a old style BB or one of the new ones, where the cranks bolt onto the BB axle with 2 little allen bolts on the left crank?

My BB is one of these and it clicks on the early part of my rides, but disappears.

If it was an old style BB then just grab the cranks and see if there's any play in the BB.

Even the white SPD's were serviceable if I remember correctly?

[fizzwheel]

About the clicking, I get that alot on my Shimano Hollowtech II bottom bracket.

Take the non drives side crack arm off, clean off the cr*p thats accumulated on the face of the arm and the face of the bottom bracket shell and then put it back together again. Grit gets in between there and it makes it click.

Other place is the chain ring bolts work loose and that can make it click.

Wheel skewers are another thing, if they are loose will make it creak and click.

What are the cleats on your shoes like, if they are worn they can cause creaking and clicking as well.

Could also be the spokes creaking due to loose one. I've had it where I had dry spoke nipples going into the hub, LBS dropped a drop of lube into them and it cured it after I couldnt work out why it was creaking

Then basically go over the whole bike and check for loose bolts and make sure everything is tightened up properly.

Yeah the left crank has two little bolts on it, and the bearing cups appear to be outside the frame. I cannot stand the clicking like, I must get to the bottom of it. Tomorrow i'm going to get them rebuilt, if they still do it then i'm replacing them with the next model up and i'm gonna pick up some framless glasses while i'm on. Sick of seeing the top of my specs as i pedal.

I replaced the SPD's with the next model up 105's (£40 edinburgh cycles). Clicking gone, well the annoying one has. I have a mild rear wheel buckle and a few clicky loose spokes but I can live with that. I altered the stem and fitted the Fizik seat, seat seems a little better although it has no cutout so there may be a numbness issue with it. Did 35 miles on it all today, the long stem is no good for me so it will be back to the 80mm one tomorrow. Getting closer to perfect now though!!

Your help is appreciated!!

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by Jackie_Black

Did 35 miles on it all today, the long stem is no good for me so it will be back to the 80mm one tomorrow. Getting closer to perfect now though!!
Your help is appreciated!!

For me going between the 2 extremes of stem length isn't good, the old way was to make any changes gradually, 40mm might not sound much, but I would notice such a change, in fact I'd notice a 10mm difference in length if all the other measurements were identical.

A too long stem is going to hyper extend your neck and cause problems, a too short stem is going to hunch you up. Etc

Many years ago I bought a book by Bernard Hinault and used the methods to sort my position out. Its an old book now, but some of the methods used are still good today.

Needs a bit of help from some one else to take the measurements

http://www.amazon.com/Road-Racing-Te.../dp/0941950131

I've also got a copy of cycling plus with how to set you're position up, you're welcome to a copy of the relavant pages, as a lot of them refer to the Hinault methods as one way of setting up your bike.

A friend suggested we go for a cycle today, and I've been wanting to cycle to university (where I'm starting in September).

So, at 9am we set off from Rayleigh, not quite sure of the best route, and ended up in Greenwich where I will be at uni.

We took the woolwich ferry which was lovely seeing weather was so nice.

We got back having completed 100 miles exactly.

My friend hadn't cycled for 3 years, and I went on the single speed.

Some of the hills were getting tough at the end. We averaged 12mph which with several stops and the lack of cycling my friend had done I thought was pretty good!

I felt I could have gone significantly quicker, but was very very enjoyable!

[maviczap]

Nice one, especially for your mate.

Even with all my cycling I've never done a century ride, I probably could, but I've never been inclined to?