Running in, what's your view?

I've run in my GSX-R by the book, the way I see it the restrictions are probably there for a reason.

[jambo]

While I'm not sure that I would necessarily stick religiously to a running in procedure I am ultra paranoid about letting bikes warm up at low revs and building them through a ride, and clearly beating the thing to within an inch of it's life from new is just not an option for someone that thinks like this on a daily basis

That said, never owned a new bike

I'm on my second SV and I've run them both in by the book. I've read plenty on here about the amount of oil an SV CAN use, and the dealer told me once that 'These twins can use a bit of oil, so check it regular'. I've never had to put a drop of oil in either bike, or even noticed a drop in level between services. Maybe this is because I've run them in?

Originally Posted by skidmarx

I'm on my second SV and I've run them both in by the book. I've read plenty on here about the amount of oil an SV CAN use, and the dealer told me once that 'These twins can use a bit of oil, so check it regular'. I've never had to put a drop of oil in either bike, or even noticed a drop in level between services. Maybe this is because I've run them in?

Almost 6000miles in on my new (now not-so-new) K6, and I have to agree. She's never used a drop of oil over what weekend warriors would call a year!

What’s funny is that modern cars don’t state a running in period … with modern engineering it is a thing of the past. So why do bikes still have a running in period??

600+ once the bores are glazed (which running in by the book will do) then they will remain that way until it gets honed (i.e. never unless you have a rebuild). If you want your bike to be oil tight and have max compression you need to thrash it from new (when up to temp obviously) to seat the rings properly. This majority of this process actually happens within the first few miles of running!!!

I have run in by the book in the past, but with what I know now, I’d thrash it initially to seal things, then just be a bit mindful that it is young after that until it has a few miles on the clock!!

The most important thing is that the bike (oil, water, components) is up to temp, if its not then that is when damage is done.

Originally Posted by Blue_SV650S

What’s funny is that modern cars don’t state a running in period … with modern engineering it is a thing of the past.

Every time my brother has bought a new car, or his wife has (yes, they're flash gits) it's always been stated as having a running-in period.

I think when my brothers wife bought her Renalut Clio, it was something like below 3k rpm for 300 miles, then below 6k rpm until 1000.

When my parents bought their brand new Saxo, this too had a running in procedure.

Has things changed that much in the last 2-3 years in terms of bedding engines in? (or at least the manufacturers recommended way)

Read this and decide for yourself.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Originally Posted by Baph

Every time my brother has bought a new car, or his wife has (yes, they're flash gits) it's always been stated as having a running-in period.

I think when my brothers wife bought her Renalut Clio, it was something like below 3k rpm for 300 miles, then below 6k rpm until 1000.

When my parents bought their brand new Saxo, this too had a running in procedure.

Has things changed that much in the last 2-3 years in terms of bedding engines in? (or at least the manufacturers recommended way)

I don’t really do cars (new especially) myself, so can’t look at the manual to confirm. But on conversations with my dad (who is old and a traditionalist about such things as running in) … the last 3 cars he has had ALL have not specified a running in period … he has had lengthy conversations where he just couldn’t handle this concept!!! “Yes Yes dad, things have changed in the past 50 years”

Originally Posted by Blue_SV650S

What’s funny is that modern cars don’t state a running in period … with modern engineering it is a thing of the past. So why do bikes still have a running in period??

Because they're more highly tuned.

Originally Posted by Blue_SV650S

600+ once the bores are glazed (which running in by the book will do) then they will remain that way until it gets honed (i.e. never unless you have a rebuild). If you want your bike to be oil tight and have max compression you need to thrash it from new (when up to temp obviously) to seat the rings properly.

More knowledgeable people than you have said otherwise!

What I read in Ride was something to this effect:

Thrashing it from new will make it make more bhp sooner, but also the engine will wear out sooner. Go easy on it and it will initally make less, but after a few thousand miles or so it will open up and make as much power as the thrashed bike does, but will also last a lot longer.

But then contrary to that, I've seen that website that advocates thrashing it from new and changing the oil & filter after the first 25 miles and shows much cleaner/smoother pistons from bikes run in this way.

I don't know what to believe. Without trying various ways of running in on a few dozen examples of a particular model of one bike (and then running them for 100,000 miles to see how running in effects longevity), it's pretty difficult to say comprehensively. Even then, it'd only be true for that sort of engine. Getting 100,000 miles on a dozen or so test bikes would be rather expensive R&D-wise, so I can't imagine Suzuki & co. do it. As someone else said, I suspect they edge on the side of caution.

My POV?

For a road bike, I'd run in according to the manufacturer's specifications. If it breaks, at least you've not voided your warranty. For a dedicated race/track bike(not that I've had one!); I'd thrash from new (once warm) to ensure it makes peak power early on. It's probably going to be wrecked/sold before 20,000 miles, so longevity isn't a concern.

With regard to car engines:

It's correct they don't need running in any more. I drive a lot of brand new cars and I've certainly noticed the engine feels a bit "tight" and slightly unwilling/less responsive than one with 10,000 on the clock.