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#11 | |
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#12 | |
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#13 |
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H, they were stainless cap head/allen bolts that came with the carb jetting kit. I'd have thought stainless allen or hex head bolts, suitably copperslipped, would do. The seal kit should really come with new bolts, as it's nigh on impossible to get those stupid OEM ones out without destroying them. You have the patience of a saint!
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#14 | |
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#15 |
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#16 | |
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However I hear cast ally is not the ideal substance... and clearing the old finish off the top would be hard work.
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#17 | |
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#18 |
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#19 |
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You can get one to fit, talk to twf.
You do need new mount but it is easy
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#20 |
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Well time for the rebuild-
second coat dried, so put it back together- start off with this- ![]() small smear of rubber grease in recess prior to fitting seals ![]() then fit the seals ![]() piston time- again a smear of rubber grease ![]() then gently push into the caliper ![]() two halves back together with plenty of copper grease on the caliper bolts(i always fit them in the back of the caliper first to get the threads a good coating of grease) same with the bleed nipples, then fit it all together. ![]() ![]() from the above pic you'll see that the other half of the caliper has had the brake pad pin holes drilled through, much easier for future brake pad changes. pins and holes get good dose of copper grease and then fitted, retaining pins fitted,bleed nipple covers fitted then whole caliper gets a wipe with a copper grease rag(found that it tends to stop the caliper getting grotty with road carp) ![]() add pads,fit dust cover, fit to bike and bleed, then ride like a loon and hit the anchors-you know that the back one will work for a while atleast ![]() hope this maybe help anyone who doubts they can service there own calipers. H. |
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