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Old 07-02-06, 10:22 AM   #11
jonboy
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Well I know Rictus uses engine oil (used! ) in his Scotoiller and I remember he did something like 40,000 miles on the OEM chain using this method.

Something wrong with engine oil? I don't think so. I would humbly suggest that it's the frequency of application that was likely the problem (and that dealer doesn't sound too well informed sadly) - if you're not using a Scottoiler then you'd need to coat the chain with oil every 100 miles miminum otherwise it will have flung off and you'll be riding on a more or less dry chain.

The chain would also have shown signs that is was going AWOL which should have been noticed when you tightened it. And the other thing is, were you tightening the chain too tightly? Very easy to do, the chain should only be tightened to the Suzuki guidelines at the tightest spot even if it means that the rest of the chain is looser than desired.

Good luck with your next one, but it's not the fault of the SV's twin, get a chain oiler if you're unhappy with lubing very frequently .


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Old 07-02-06, 10:38 AM   #12
mysteryjimbo
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Says in most manuals, 10/40 engine oil to lube chains. Obviously depending on environment. Look it up.
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Old 07-02-06, 10:40 AM   #13
Foey
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I remember seeing a dvd last year, was a freebie with one of the bike mags, the guy in the film was doing a feature on servicing your bike, he went to H*n*a Uk to the main service dept for the feature, now according to the guy in that dvd H*n*a recommend using engine oil on the inside of the chain & chain wax on the outer edge, their theory being that the wax helps avoid excessive fling.


If engine oil caused the rubber seals on the chain to perrish, surely it would have the same effect on any other rubber seal inside the engine.
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Old 07-02-06, 10:57 AM   #14
BillyC
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Perhaps the problem is that engine oil is thin... and is flung off easily, leaving your chain without any protection.

Look at something like the scottoiler - nothing very special about the oil it delivers, but the benefit is that the constant flow of oil keeps your chain clean.

Now, there's the key "constant flow". If you're going to loose oil, you will have to keep reapplying it very often - which is why the Scotty has a whole reservoir of the stuff!
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Old 07-02-06, 11:22 AM   #15
Stig
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I pull wheelies all the time (apparently ) I accelerate hard and brake hard. I have now done about 6000 miles on my current chain and sprockets and during that time I have had to adjust it twice.

I would suggest as others have, that it is not the fact that your using oil rather than a lube that is killing the chain, but rather the frequency that you are using it. It's oil, it would not last very long at all as a lubricant on the chain. I believe that most that use oil, use it via a scottoiler, thus adding oil to the chain constantly.

Other than that, the only other reason I could think off that your chain snapped after such a short time, is possibly, the chain was a cheap one, the wheel was not aligned properly therefore putting wear on the links or that the swingarm is not straight, again causing excessive wear on the chain.
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Old 07-02-06, 12:18 PM   #16
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Lots of food for thought.

All messages make sense. Time to take stock. I think possibly one of the reasons is I had a period of non-use over Xmas, and after I had used it I critically didn't clean and relube the chain. I had noticed my throttle was mega stiff when I returned to use it and had more or less seized. I managed to free it after some TLC and lubrication and perhaps my chain went the same way over this period, possibly seizing a couple of links?

I must agree about the use of oil as a lube, it does seem quite reasonable to use. I am probably still not over my 'near-miss' from yesterday. You would think though that Motorcycle shops would give you sensible advice, especially when I use them for various jobs, which, and I hasten to add, they have always carried out well for me.

Ho hum!

Cheers

Tony
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Old 07-02-06, 12:30 PM   #17
embee
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poppycack.

There's a common myth that "rubber" is attacked by oil.

First, there's "rubber" and there's "rubber". Saying "rubber" is like saying "metal".

As an example, natural rubber has virtually no resistance to any solvent or hydrocarbon based fluid.
Fluorocarbon rubber is pretty much resistant to any commonly found solvent/HC, but shouldn't be used with glycol/antifreeze.
Silicone rubber is fine with mineral oils and hydraulic fluids, but should not be used with diesel and isn't really recommended for petrol, better to use nitrile or chloroprene, but chloroprene shouldn't be used for water/oil emulsions.

...and so it goes on.

No-one can tell me that respectable chain manufacturers will fit O-rings in a material that will not withstand commonly found lubricants/oils/greases and operate at the temperatures chains reach (warning, don't get hold of a chain that's broken on a bike at high speed!! HOT!! )

It's not rocket science, it's well proven materials technology.
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Old 07-02-06, 12:32 PM   #18
thor
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Quick question for the ones in the know.

If I use a scotoiler, and intend to leave the bike for a few weeks, should I spray some lube on it to stop it drying out/rusting?

Thanks!
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Old 07-02-06, 12:41 PM   #19
Carsick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thor
Quick question for the ones in the know.

If I use a scotoiler, and intend to leave the bike for a few weeks, should I spray some lube on it to stop it drying out/rusting?

Thanks!
If you're worried about the plates going a bit rusty, then yes, otherwise it's not really an issue so long as the rollers are lubed well enough when you ride it again.
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Old 07-02-06, 12:42 PM   #20
thor
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So it doesn't matter if the plates have a (very light) dusting of rust?
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