TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide

My idle is automatic. ECU controls it. It is always at 1300.

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk

Did this yesterday on my K6, it was factory set at almost 3700 and got it down to 1600. Less than half an hour work and the bike is now considerably smoother at low rpms. U-turns won't be a pain anymore!
Thanks for the info!

Mine was adjusted for a second time having crept it's way up. If I start conking out again I guess I'm gonna need a new TPS.

Originally Posted by dxaxrxc

I have tried this with a neighbor for an hour or more. No luck. I got it down to 2800. I have an 07 which means the idle adjusts itself. With that being said the line starts in the middle but too much adjusting and the line jumps to the top. So we used that as a starting point and would tap it ever so slightly till the line moved back to the middle and we would test it. We must have tried that 20 times and the best we could do was 2800. Any help would be very welcome.

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk

I have an 07 model and have no idle adjust either.. The TPS also appears to be different - only one screw. I tried the adjustment today. Was initially set at 3000 rpm - managed to set it at about 1800 rpm. The rotation to do the adjustment is so small the I cant visibly see the change - the paint marks still seem in the same position. It does seem to make a difference to the on/off/on throttle changes at low revs. I'm guessing that if your not going through the transition point in normal riding (other than starting from idle) then there will be some improvement. All up only took about 15minutes. I also measured the resistances of the TPS connections (with wires disconnected) before I did the adjustment- forgot to do the after, but can do it if anyone is interested.

Done mine today for the first time. So easy to do, i have a 61-plate(2011) Sv 650s, 1650 miles on the clock/3months old. Was at 2900rpm, now is at 1550rpm. Slightly smoother at low revs, just a little, but enough to notice. It only needed moving maybe 0.5mm

Checked mine yesterday and it was up at 3100 which explains my earlier post about a jerky ride around this rpm. When I went to adjust the sensor it looks different to this guide ( I have a 61 reg).
Is the correct sensor the one on the right? There is only 1 bolt (that I can see)

Just wanted to say a massive thanks for making this guide! I did mine today, took half hour or so I guess, mine was up about 4k to begin with now at 1500. Only went out for a quick spin but much better I think.

Once again. Thanks!

So I got my 05' sv650 about a month ago and after reading about this adjustment, I decided to do it today. It took me a while to get it idling at 1200 with the line in the center and the line moving up around 1500 but I finally got it (after about an hour ) I tightened the bolts while the bike was still running to make sure I didn't move the sensor and I was real happy with myself. That is until I shut the bike off and tried to start it again. No go. It cranks but doesn't start. After one or two tries it doesn't even crank. Then I let it sit for a minute, try again and it cranks again but doesn't start. I actually got it to start once and it idled at 1200 and the line moved to the top at 1500 just as before. The adjustment worked, but it's no use if I can't start the bike :-/

I should probably mention that I have a Power Commander III with a map to match my exhaust (Dale Walker). I don't know if this makes a difference... I asked this question on svrider and was told that it should not matter at all; just that I need to recalibrate the PCIII after I do the TPS.

Anyone here successfully do this adjustment with a PCIII on board? Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated...

Update: It turns out that with my HIDs and the power commander, my battery actually discharges when the bike is idling. I charged the battery overnight and it starts up perfectly now. The line is in the center at idle and moves up around 1400rpm. The only concern I have left is that when the bike is started cold, it idles higher, above the threshold, so it warms up with the line at the top, not in the center. Once it gets warm enough and the idle drops below this threshold, it is in the center again. I don't really understand what the line moving up indicates in terms of FI, but I just want to be sure it's not bad for the engine to be idling with the line at the top when its warming up from a cold start. Thank you!

Originally Posted by motormike

So I got my 05' sv650 about a month ago and after reading about this adjustment, I decided to do it today. It took me a while to get it idling at 1200 with the line in the center and the line moving up around 1500 but I finally got it (after about an hour ) I tightened the bolts while the bike was still running to make sure I didn't move the sensor and I was real happy with myself. That is until I shut the bike off and tried to start it again. No go. It cranks but doesn't start. After one or two tries it doesn't even crank. Then I let it sit for a minute, try again and it cranks again but doesn't start. I actually got it to start once and it idled at 1200 and the line moved to the top at 1500 just as before. The adjustment worked, but it's no use if I can't start the bike :-/

I should probably mention that I have a Power Commander III with a map to match my exhaust (Dale Walker). I don't know if this makes a difference... I asked this question on svrider and was told that it should not matter at all; just that I need to recalibrate the PCIII after I do the TPS.

Anyone here successfully do this adjustment with a PCIII on board? Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated...

Update: It turns out that with my HIDs and the power commander, my battery actually discharges when the bike is idling. I charged the battery overnight and it starts up perfectly now. The line is in the center at idle and moves up around 1400rpm. The only concern I have left is that when the bike is started cold, it idles higher, above the threshold, so it warms up with the line at the top, not in the center. Once it gets warm enough and the idle drops below this threshold, it is in the center again. I don't really understand what the line moving up indicates in terms of FI, but I just want to be sure it's not bad for the engine to be idling with the line at the top when its warming up from a cold start. Thank you!

I just did my '09 last night. The one screw threw me for a loop, btw. Anyway I have a PC5 plugged into my bike and I pulled up the TPS calibration box on the corresponding software. If you calibrate your throttle position with the PC and then open the box back up you can visually look at the voltage being sent from your TPS and adjust it that way. Mine ended up being calibrated to 1.023v at 0% and 4.257v at 100%. When I adjusted the TPS my line was moving from the bottom to the middle at ~1.050v. So I adjusted the TPS to read ~1.036v on closed throttle. That put my line movement right at 1450rpm. Another benefit of using the software, I was able to watch the voltage for change as I tightened the screw. Just don't re-calibrate your TPS in the power commander or you'll be back to square one.

On a separate note, the threads for these bolts is the same as the generic well nuts in my wind screen.

I tried to do the adjustment today. The top bolt came out but i didnt manage to untighten the bottom one. After many efforts it is now completely rounded. Is there anything I can do to take it out?