TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by aesmith

I notice that the TPS is on the rear throttle, so any change in the linkage between the two is going to change the TPS setting. Such changes will come when the TB balance is adjusted, or by wear in the link. I wonder why they didn't put the sensor on the front TB.

Both ends of the front throttle spindle are already occupied, one end has the cables and the other has the linkage to the rear throttle body, the rear spindle has the linkage on one end - the obvious spare spot is where it went.
It makes sense really - throttle balance is supposed to be periodically checked for adjustment, TPS is no different. Of course it must borne in mind that it is a dependent adjustment - changing other things changes TPS setting; throttle balance and importantly tickover speed.

If you were to read my previous posts in this thread, I describe my thoughts on the reasons why the adjustment changes in the earlier part of the bike's life, and then settles down somewhat.

Despite the apparent wonder some people have expressed for this adjustment, it's really nothing special - it's in the service schedule and, while perhaps a little fiddly, it's hardly a difficult job.

[aesmith]

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

Of course it must borne in mind that it is a dependent adjustment - changing other things changes TPS setting; throttle balance and importantly tickover speed.

I didn't realise that last factor. Need to reset mine anyway since I did it before balancing the carbs.

The manual that I've seen doesn't detail the fine-tuning of the TPS, setting the point where the line moves up. It just specifies to check that the line is central at tickover.

Originally Posted by Runako

Just to clarify. Is this necessary for the K7+?

Was on my K8...

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Just bought the torx bits, if anyone else in my area wants to do this your welcome to borrow the bits

Done this tonight. Piece of cake. Got the torx bits (a whole set?!) from Screwfix for £5 which was decent.

My TPS (SL0) had a tippex mark over the frame, screw and sensor so obviously it's been played with.....or they come like that? Anyway, mine was about 3,500 to make the line move and I got it set at about 1500-1600 now.

Haven't been out on it yet but got a run planned at the weekend so will hopefully see the difference there.

K

[Nobbylad]

The 'tippex' is applied at the factory.

so glad I found out about this, just did mine today and the fuel injection didn't kick in till about 4200 RPM got it down to about 1800 RPM and it is like a totally different bike thanks so much for posting this highly recommend doing this to your bike GLAD I DID

[Bibio]

i have had mine set at just off tickover and has been perfecto for the past 2 years. only think i can say is that i get much less engine braking but things are a lot smoother with almost a complete lack of throttle snatch.

[Coderedpl]

Thank you very the detailed write up.

I did this on my 2004 SV650 I picked up recently and it's a LOT smoother, took a bit over 30 minutes as when i tightened it would move, every little move affected it. Got it down to right about 1450-1500!

Think I might have ****ed up. Done a check and it was way off, took note of where the line was, cut slots in the heads, ran till warm, switched off and put in wire, press start and buzzzzzz, not the usual click of dead battery. Removed wire press start still buzzzzzz like electric shorting. What could of happened or am I panicking over dead battery?