Check the torque on your bolts regularly!

personaly i dont torque bolts anymore anyhow, i used to until my torque wrench snapped a bolt that apparenty wasnt tight enough according to the wrench reading? ? ive never had any problems with a bolt ive tightened but when the bike has had work done not by me i do always check bolts more so wheel spindles.

Having read both threads I would thread lock the studs into the fork leg and tighten the nuts dry, by feel or using a torque wrench.

What I have noticed is the blind faith some but not all people put into a torque wrench. I have worked with a large firm that had its torque wrenches calibrated regularly. Those outside the tolerance were thrown or recalibrated if possible. Yet they still fail between inspection periods (it happened to me on a cam bolt) and It has also happened where a new unused torque wrench failed its cal. I wonder how many private owners have ever tested their wrench out or checked them on a guage. Basically if it feels too tight with a 450mm wrench, torque or otherwise be careful. Steel bolt into Ally, there can only be one winner.

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by daved407

What I have noticed is the blind faith some but not all people put into a torque wrench.

I totally agree. Using a torque wrench with no idea what the correct torque for a particular size of fastener and material should "feel" like is a disaster waiting to happen.

Originally Posted by mikerj

I totally agree. Using a torque wrench with no idea what the correct torque for a particular size of fastener and material should "feel" like is a disaster waiting to happen.

What do you suggest a newbie mechanic trying to learn what it should "feel" like should do?

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by -Ralph-

What do you suggest a newbie mechanic trying to learn what it should "feel" like should do?

Sadly, the only way they are going to learn is by gaining experience. Doing this under the guidance of a reasonably skilled person would minimise the number of sheared/loose fasteners.

Experience isn't gained overnight and having been doing the job for over 40years I still double check with a calibrated torque wrench.The number of settings, type of materials and thread variations,plus often difficulty of access means that although I might be able to make an educated estimate as to the correct setting I still double check for MY peace of mind.
Yes torque wrenches can go out of calibration but by what extent compared with the inexperienced heaving on a spanner.

Some on here may be more proficient than others at this but my advice would be use a decent torque wrench
The bolt or nut size can be used as a rule of thumb as to the extent of tightening required but unfortunately in mass produced engines the grade of materials used in the manufacture often mean that they are lower than you would anticipate.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Dicky Ticker

,especially if it has corrosion or burred threads.
We are all entitled to our own opinions

The corrosion or burrs would make any torque setting completely meaningless wrt the clamping force applied.

Originally Posted by Dicky Ticker

Mikerj,If you have never had a bolt strip or break in 30+ years of fitting you are a better man than me.

It maybe better if I keep my advice to myself in future and just let people get on with it in their own ways,in the end dilligaf.

I have had bolts strip, and snap when using a properly calibrated torque wrench. Flawed fastener or corrosion, it can happen.

I go with the "use your head" standard with everything I do, when riding I know best what speed to go regardless of the limit, when doing up a bolt I will decide whether it is worth just doing it up by feel or by referring to the manufacturers instructions as well as feel.

Everyone is entitled to their opinions and to voice a disagreement with anyone elses. Nowt personal, no need to get shirty about it.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

The corrosion or burrs would make any torque setting completely meaningless wrt the clamping force applied.



I have had bolts strip, and snap when using a properly calibrated torque wrench. Flawed fastener or corrosion, it can happen.

I go with the "use your head" standard with everything I do, when riding I know best what speed to go regardless of the limit, when doing up a bolt I will decide whether it is worth just doing it up by feel or by referring to the manufacturers instructions as well as feel.

Everyone is entitled to their opinions and to voice a disagreement with anyone elses. Nowt personal, no need to get shirty about it.

I don't even know what a torque wrench is....

But....it's not like you to keep the peace YC!!!

[yorkie_chris]

That is not keeping peace, that is just how it is.

A torque wrench is just like a ratchet, but you can adjust it to "click" at a certain torque (level of tightness ) to tighten a nut or bolt to a fairly exact level of tension.

Like when you or other coppers on here* give your opinion on legal matters based on experience, if someone says different you don't go "oh well I'll just be quiet then, I don't give a f***, #huffhuffhuffhuff#".


*Most of you, there's a certain ex one (not DT) who comes across as a patronising tw*t with little useful to add. Maybe it's a thing with the older/retired set who would rather huff and take bat and ball home rather than engage in useful and open discussion? Is it an unfortunate effect of age to be able to view things objectively rather than personally? Anyway, I digress! Torque settings....

[yorkie_chris]

The above post is off topic and taking the p*ss out of certain people. The bit below is technical and of importance. And probably worth discussing.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

The corrosion or burrs would make any torque setting completely meaningless wrt the clamping force applied.

To quantify that, manufacturers give torque settings to apply a clamping pressure to a part. It's given that this is right for specific conditions. New parts, specific lubrication, a torque wrench that hasn't been used as a hammer etc.