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#11 |
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I think when the tensioner is removed they actually extend to the furthest point and thats why they need resetting before you reinsert them?
I think thats right anyway |
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#12 |
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This is a little bit of a coincidence as I think mine could do with being looked at and I've logged on today to ask if it is a particularly difficult or time consuming task to adjust the tensioners. I'm not too bad with a set of spanners but if there are any tips or tricks then it would be great to hear them.
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#13 | |
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#14 |
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wrong chain. Cam chains are inside the engine.
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#15 |
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#16 |
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to reset you don't need to remove the tensioner itself.
take the central bolt out, using a small electrical screwdriver (careful not to damage the thread for the bolt), incert it and you'll feel it engage with a slot (you can't see it), turn the screwdriver clockwise (as in doing up a screw), you have to hold tension on it as it retracts the plunger against the spring inside, once it won't turn anymore, "sharply" withdraw the screwdriver and the plunger will "flick out" to the right length. and that's al that is required, it's worth doing this at service time anyway as it keeps them from seizing up. Cheers Mark.
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#17 |
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Nice one mark! I'll be taking the laptop into the garage at the weekend
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#18 |
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Have fun
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#19 |
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Small point that I feel is worth a mention:
The curvy SVs have the type of tensioner described by Rictus. There is no obvious way to see whether they are fully extended easily, as they will extend as you remove them. I believe the later bikes (I'm not quite sure when) switched to a spring and ratchet cam chain tensioner, which would be apparent how far it was extended when removed, and reset. Jambo
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#20 |
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Well, unless I am incredibly simple, its impossible to do the front one without removing the engine and the rear one would be tricky even with the rear tyre removed.
Am I missing a trick here? |
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