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Old 11-11-09, 07:23 PM   #21
madness
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Default Re: The climbing thread

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Originally Posted by yorkie_chris View Post
How good do you think I need to get indoor before trying outdoor stuff? I'm aiming to climb once or twice week and a bit of weights some other night.

Long term goal is to do some multi-pitch, that looks fun
To be honest, you don't have to be a particularly good climber to climb easier trad. routes. I started on grit in the Peak District long before I ever saw a climbing wall. Get someone to lead you up a few short climbs first and then have a go at leading a climb that they have placed the protection in. Practice placing gear at ground level whilst standing on the ground and then practice placing it while you're hanging on just off the ground. You'll find that climbs that you have to place your own protection need more strength and stamina as you're on them for much longer.
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Old 11-11-09, 07:54 PM   #22
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Default Re: The climbing thread

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gets boring after a year. We do have swanage cliffs tho. But im a dartmoor granite girl at heart
Doesn't if you go down there a couple of times a year and can find no one to climb with.

DOne a lot indoors this year due to commitments mostly at the Sports Centre in Hudds which is quite qood and convenient. Best place I have been in doors this year had to be Awesome Walls in Liverpool www.awesomewalls.co.uk. The main competition wall is just that awesome with about a 5 metre overhang at the top
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Old 11-11-09, 08:07 PM   #23
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Default Re: The climbing thread

I haven't been since I broke my collarbone.

Still here is some footage of me doing a 6a+ lead last year.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOxtSrYQd9s

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Old 11-11-09, 09:15 PM   #24
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Default Re: The climbing thread

Qualified climbing Instructor here, trained with UCR in Bristol in 1999, qualified in 2000 for SPA. I was assessed by a Royal Naval Rock Instructor as competent to teach lead climbing, but that was a site specific thing. Am also MLA trained and have PGCE in outdoor Education. Was going to follow MLA with MIA, but ill health put a stop to that. These days I teach my step son to climb and any one who is local and feels like a laugh. I have cllimbed almost every route in Avon up to E1 and was working through the E1 and E2 leads before I got ill. My personal best was probably E2 5C on UK Limestone and 6C+ French Sport in France and later Sardinia.

I did my first winter season in 2003-04 while I was still fit and desperately want to hit the Alps again one day when/if I am fit again. Climbing Ice is amazing and terrifying and amazing and terrifying... You get the idea. These days my Axe and Crampons are used as coat hangers. My ice boots sit forlorn in my wardrobe, unused and unloved.

Anyway, if any of you stone Monkeys feel up to a bash at Avon Limestone give me a call. Since meeting the other half, I have toned down my urges to climb terrifying stuff and due to my rubbish health I am trying to get back up to at least VS standard again.

Places I have climbed include a few places mentioned here already. Dartmoor Granite is not to my taste, I prefer The Channel Islands for the smaller crystalline red Granite. North Devon has Baggy Point which is just stunning. Heart of the Sun, E2 three pitch, is a classic Wilmott route and deserves every star it has.

I love the Peak and spent many happy hours ripping my flesh to ribbons, hand jamming on Grit stone. Also spent an hour at the Edge Climbing Wall in Sheffield, but hate indoor walls. I ran the Swindon Wall (Link Centre) for a while, but left when the call of French Sun got too much.

Loads in North Wales, but have a real love of Tremadog and Eric's Cafe. Eric Jones was a real Hero of mine and he served me breakfast on more than one occasion. Also can't go to North Wales with out popping into Pete's Eats.

I have climbed in a few places in Europe, but the best stuff was in Sardinia where I went Sport Climbing for just over a week, on immaculate, warm rough Limestone and have never climbed rock of such quality before or since.

I used to make a lot of cash from climbing, either teaching or guiding and can still teach to this day. I retired my last ropes (Beal Cobra Twins) about three months ago and plan on a new single next year. However if you ever see a mad girl on Weston Sea Front wall, clambering along, it is probably me in training.

Did I mention that I LOVE climbing?
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Old 11-11-09, 10:26 PM   #25
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Default Re: The climbing thread

stop climbing on plastic and get outdoors, trad is the only way. although i did spend three weeks this summer sport climbing in Portland.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:53 PM   #26
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Default Re: The climbing thread

More craggers on here than I realised, anyone into caving too?
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Old 11-11-09, 11:09 PM   #27
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Default Re: The climbing thread

How does one get into climbing?

I've always enjoyed climbing trees and rocks near the coast. I did look at the local club which does indoor climbing during the week and then outdoor climbing at the weekend, but I'm sure they required me to pass a basic instruction course which they didn't actually do themselves! I failed to find anywhere local!
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Old 11-11-09, 11:15 PM   #28
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Default Re: The climbing thread

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How does one get into climbing?
I just turned up at the pub where my local climbing club met and someone kindly offer to take me climbing. But that was over 20 years ago!
These days most indoor climbing walls offer introductory sessions. There's also lots of freelance outdoor education people who will run short courses.
Then there's always places like Plas y Brenin in North Wales, they run introductory courses.
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Old 11-11-09, 11:40 PM   #29
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Default Re: The climbing thread

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How does one get into climbing?

I've always enjoyed climbing trees and rocks near the coast. I did look at the local club which does indoor climbing during the week and then outdoor climbing at the weekend, but I'm sure they required me to pass a basic instruction course which they didn't actually do themselves! I failed to find anywhere local!

If you are local to me, you can hire me to teach you. Just drop me a PM if you are interested. I may be a bit broken, but I can still teach.

I warn you though, the last person I trained qualified as an instructor two years later. I have high expectations. See my previous statement as to how well qualified I am. Any instructor who takes you outside should have the minimum of the SPA certificate. Indoors, a site specific qualification can be enough.

Ex forces folk who have Rock leader Quals can transfer them to MLT quals too, so you can find a lot of ex forces manaics out there who are damn good instructors.



I was free lance for a while and did other stuff too, such as Caving, Mountain Biking, archery, Orienteering and shooting. However, I avoided water sports because I got sea sick in a kayak!
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Old 11-11-09, 11:57 PM   #30
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Default Re: The climbing thread

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If you spend your life inside, you will never be gutty enough to get outside. Come down here if you like, I am SPA ..happy to take you out
I spent too long indoors and was terrified by trad climbing at first. I got over it, but I haven't been out in months and dont know if I've still got the balls now.

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Originally Posted by rick0361 View Post
Best place I have been in doors this year had to be Awesome Walls in Liverpool www.awesomewalls.co.uk. The main competition wall is just that awesome with about a 5 metre overhang at the top
I was at liverpool university so this was my local, its also my favourite too. The bouldering in the crypt is particually good.
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