GSXR front end - axle question UPDATED WITH PICS PAGE 2 HELP

The problem;

No wheel in place all sits fine and flush



With wheel in;





Axle and nut sit proud a few mm to get wheel to centre. Captive spacers mean axle can be done up no more, wheel spins fine.

Another pic'



Ideas anone is my axle the wrong type???



Anyone help??

Cheers
Kieran

[21QUEST]

Safe to say we can take the axle out of the equation even though you got 169mm to my 171mm . ie it's correct

I'm thinking wheel bearings or the yokes center to centre measurements of yoke have changed.

I won't tell you what it should be just yet. I'll wait for you to take the measurement and we'll see what you come up with.

Cheers
Ben

Its the width of the bearings in the wheel that changes as well as fork spacing (7mm difference on combinations ive seen).
regardless of the length of the axle the length of the nut will effect where the centreline of the wheel is.

Centralise the wheel (fit calipers with no pads, discs will prob be .5>1mm out from centreline) and measure the gap between the lip of the nut and fork leg(3.5mm), get this amount turned off the nut, you can do the same to the shoulder of the spindle if you want it to sit flush.....................Or ask a grown up to do it

Originally Posted by 21QUEST

Safe to say we can take the axle out of the equation even though you got 169mm to my 171mm . ie it's correct

I'm thinking wheel bearings or the yokes center to centre measurements of yoke have changed.

I won't tell you what it should be just yet. I'll wait for you to take the measurement and we'll see what you come up with.

Cheers
Ben

center of yoke-yoke 205mm

width of hub inside dust seals 134mm

Originally Posted by Robw#70

Its the width of the bearings in the wheel that changes as well as fork spacing (7mm difference on combinations ive seen).
regardless of the length of the axle the length of the nut will effect where the centreline of the wheel is.

Centralise the wheel (fit calipers with no pads, discs will prob be .5>1mm out from centreline) and measure the gap between the lip of the nut and fork leg(3.5mm), get this amount turned off the nut, you can do the same to the shoulder of the spindle if you want it to sit flush.....................Or ask a grown up to do it

this is my next step to be fair

[21QUEST]

Robw#70 is right in what he is saying but for me the point is that it should bolt straight on.

If the yoke centre to centre is the same as pre K5 then it can only be the
1)Wrong bearings(assmming you have a k series wheel) or
2) You don't have a 'K' series wheel ie you have an SRAD wheel.

Got a pic showing wheel spokes?

Cheers
Ben

[21QUEST]

Sorry a bit slow posting. The measurement for the wheel I was after was the distance between the inside surfaces of both discs.

For the SRAD it should be 130mm and the K series 128.

The centre to centre measurement for the K series up to K4(for sure) is 207mm.

I don't know how accurate the measure for the hub and the yokes are but those I have listed are.

Off to do some shopping now but I'll send you a private message when I get back.

Cheers
Ben

Originally Posted by 21QUEST

Sorry a bit slow posting. The measurement for the wheel I was after was the distance between the inside surfaces of both discs.

For the SRAD it should be 130mm and the K series 128.

The centre to centre measurement for the K series up to K4(for sure) is 207mm.

I don't know how accurate the measure for the hub and the yokes are but those I have listed are.

Off to do some shopping now but I'll send you a private message when I get back.

Cheers
Ben

Double checked my measurments;

Yoke - yoke 209mm

Wheel hub 135mm

Axle 171mm


pic of the wheel;







Problem must be the wheel.......

Does this look like a SARD wheel to anyone, I think it must be not a K series one???

looks a bit like a SV wheel to me... but what do I know...

I think thats an SRAD wheel, the k1> wheels have diamond shaped spokes.