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#1 |
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Dudes... My rear brake pedal isn't moving smoothly. It's not 'sticking' as such, I can just feel a roughness is the movement as operate the lever. It returns back to its position but not as nicely as it used to. I keep feeling like I have get my foot under it and try to flick it back up, but I don't actually need to...
I bled the brakes a while back and that didn't fix it. Tonight I've disassembled the footrest and lever pivot, cleaned it and will be lubing and putting it back together tomorrow. If that doesn't fix it... whats next? ... Please don't say complete strip down of calliper and master cylinder, unless that's what I need to do obviously. Additional questions 1) Can I re-use the clevis split pin or is it one of those badgers that need replacing... where can you get one that small? 2) On a different issue, I think my rear reservoir may be leaking... only when off the bike and put on its side. If it is, surely it's not normal. I would of thought the reservoir would be air tight? I did think that the fluid was getting too dark for the length of time it's been in there |
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#2 |
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I reckon a proper clean and lube up will sort it mate. Mines a bit like that but I rarely use the rear brake so it's not fussed me enough to do what you are doing.
IMO the pin can be reused as long as it doesn't feel like it's gonna snap off. Halfords or maplins will sell them, if not you could try your local bike shop. Ps rebuild your caliper. |
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#3 |
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mine was like that due to the winter etc, i sprayed the footpeg where the brake pivets with aload of wd40 to free it up and then gave it a good clean. it worked and now is smooth
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#4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Falmouth
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Hi Chris, I stripped my rear brake lever and relubed with good Teflon white grease (bicycle brand in this case).
I junked the split pin as it's a pain and replaced with a stainless bolt cut down so the plan part acts as the brake lever shaft and leaving enough threat for a nyloc nut. Now it's simple to un-do whenever it's needed Also fluid reservoir should be air tight. Creased rubber top? Last edited by MJC-DEV; 12-08-11 at 07:19 AM. |
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#5 |
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I have the same thing on mine at the moment and the clean and lube task is my plan this weekend.
If there's resistance, clean and lube is the answer. A motto for life! |
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#6 |
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Sounds like lubing the pivots wil fix it to me. Reservoir isn't air tight, but the fluid level tetnds to go down not up. Needs a flush if it's dark though. They're a laugh to get at, I think I removed the mounting bolt and twanged it outside of the fairing before removing the cap.
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#7 |
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If you've got a sticky lever your caliper maybe also needing a clean.
If you need to drop the fluid take the caliper off. Where's the pointy res shoehorned?
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#8 |
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Haven't had a chance to do any work since posting this thread.
MJC-DEV- I really like your idea of replacing the clevis pin with a bolt and lock-nut, seems almost ingenious. I'll be trying it but I've only got a selection of alloy bolts but will definitely give it ago... good shout! Andrewsmith- I will be removing the calliper as I'm gonna swap the hose for a braided hose. The reservoir is underneath the riders seat, but as said they're a mare to get to. My whole rear brake system is off the bike at the moment. I'm sort of happy enough to remove and strip the calliper but I can't strip down the master cylinder as I can't afford the rebuild kit. I don't have an air hose to pop out the piston an I can't find new seals for a k6. Also can you actually buy silicone grease in an actual grease form instead of an aerosol. The reason I ask is that's what the manual says to use for the pin, rubber boot and all that guff. When I changed the pads I just used copper grease on everything. Cheers guys. |
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#9 |
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Location: Falmouth
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I think you need something like an M5 or M6 x 50 to give plenty of plain section. When you've got the size, get a stainless one (and nyloc nut) from ebay for a pound or two as alloy will be a bit soft.
Lots of silicone grease on Ebay as well such as http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICONE-M...item2c5dd897af |
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