Want To Change Gearing.

I am due to change the chain and sprockets on my 2000 Curvy S. I want to loose teeth on the front and gain teeth on the rear.

I have tried the search but cant find a definate answer.

What kit will i need (f/sprocket, r/sporket and chain) and where will i get it from.

What options have i got on the number of teeth to loose and gain, and what are the major differnces.

Also has anyone done this and does it make a lot of differance.

Any help will be gratefuly received.

[yorkie_chris]

http://www.gearingcommander.com/ may be helpful

Look on here;

www.bandcexpress.com

Andy, What are you tying to achieve? Faster acelleration or stunts?
One tooth off the front OR three off the rear will have a big effect. Even the difference of one tooth on the rear can easily be felt.

Carl

I am trying to achieve faster acceleration with maybe a bit of power wheelie action

[TSM]

1 tooth on the front is equal to 3 on the rear, the SV will power wheelie in 1st and 2nd (narrow powerband that it will do it in). I have put nakid gearing on my SVS, but next time i may go 2+ on the rear, duno, i dont wheelie normaly, just want acceleration in small ammounts. Remember that overall your bike will not accelerate any quicker from a gear change, compared to another bike, you will run out of revs quicker than the other bike.

Better to do the rear as it does not wear out the chain so much, but if you have just fitted new chain and sprockets, then you could just put 1 tooth down on the front, it will make the wheel longer though and you could get to the end of the chain adjustment, a front sprocket is around £10-15 by itself, easy to fit if you have the tools.

Dont put a new chain on worn sprockets, but i personaly dont mind putting replacment sprockets if its realy early into the chain life, or if the sprockets are shagged but the chain has got life in it. All up to you though, if you are taking it to a shop, prolly easier to get it all done in one go.

I would say dont go more than one down on the front (poss 2) as it brings the chain closer to the swingarm and increases wear on the rubber strip, the Triumph TT600 changed sprocket config later in its life, increasing the front by 1 and rear lower by 3 as the rubber strip was being destroyed quickly and the rubber was too soft.

1 down on the front, one up on the rear will give a notable difference. Any more than that and any 70+MPH runs will be a bit 'buzzy'.

The advantage with a -1F +1R is that you can get away with the stock length (108link?) chain!!

Originally Posted by lloyd_christmas

Look on here;

www.bandcexpress.com

Hi folks, i'm also interested in this modification. My bike currently tops out at about 125-130 on a straight flat road. By changing sprockets, what kind of loss of top speed are we talking?

On this site, what's the difference between the normal ones, and the race use ones? Also, how many teeth does a standard front and back have?

Thanks

I have just a put on a 46 rear. Up from a 45 I had on until then and 2 up from stock.

Feels very perky now and not buzzy. Haven't had a try on top speed yet.

Tried a 14 tooth front a while ago with a 44 rear. Didn't like it and reckoned it wore the chain quicker.

The only difference between the "race" and "road" ones is the pitch. Race being 520 and road being 525. Stick with 525 IMO for road use.