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#51 |
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Well I never. My dear friend Wayne sent over a photo of the work so far. He says that he is not finished yet, it needs more polishing and smoothing to get it perfect. Anyway, this is a shot of what he has done so far.
![]() He has removed the slight rise where the standard riser sits and taken a little off of the back edge of the risers to match them up a little better. I think that he has done an amazing job, given that I had two miss-matched bits that I wanted bolted on. Once the top yoke is sorted, my next job is the Bar and then the cables and lastly the brakes. Should look different and pretty cool when she is finished. However, I still have to fit the damned Ballast resistors and get the poor bike running again after a month sat in the garage, in the cold with just Henry the CG125 and Carol's GTR 1000 for company. Still tempted by Candy Apple red wheels though... ![]() |
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#52 |
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The bars ending up basically in stock spot then?
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#53 |
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Almost, a little higher and slightly further back than on an N Model. Should look great on my S model and the brake and clutch should still clear the fairing OK.
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#54 |
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Time for an update on the damned issue of Indicators...
![]() I managed to get some time in the garage this morning and spent a fair while playing with the bike. The first thing I noticed as soon as I unlocked my girl was a sticking front brake and a scraping noise as she moves. One of the callipers has a piston that is not retracting as much as the others and is scrubbing the pads on the disk. In truth she has not left the garage since October, but I thought that a nice cool dry garage would keep her in good order. Bum... ![]() I got her into some sun light and started to fit the Ballast resistors, I have them strapped to the fork legs, just above the bottom yoke. Getting in there was a real pain, not much room behind that fairing even with my small hands. Then I attached them as recommended, so that it looks like the Resistor is in effect shorting out the LED lamp. ![]() So came the time to check them, but having the battery on charge or an hour or so meant that I had to reconnect everything and then it was on with the ignition, Push the starter and ... Vrooooom! ![]() It has been so long since I have heard that glorious sound. First hit and she was purring like a contented Lioness, gave a few minutes to warm up and then gave her a slight blip just to get her above 3000 rpm and boy does she sound lovely... Once again I fell in love with my SV. Is it too late to buy her a Valentine Card? ![]() So first check of the indicator and I push the switch, and stare at the Bright and normal speed flash of my left indicators, followed by a test of the right. All is working nicely again and looks lovely. The flush fit lights are gorgeous and I am very pleased with the result. The ballast resistors do get very hot very quickly though, a new hand warmer I think on those cold stops. No issue with the Four ways either, so I put the access covers back on the fairing and check every thing over. ![]() After that little upset, I thought that I would snap a picture or two of the great repair I have just made and when I switched on my camera it beeped once and switched off. Flat batteries have saved you from a dull picture of a fitted resistor. I can tell that you are deeply disappointed! ![]() |
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#55 |
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Mechanical problem is stock horn is crap!
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#56 |
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Silver SV650SK3, Fuel exhaust |
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#57 |
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Well that has pretty much nailed it then...
![]() Oh well, I will look into getting a new one, how about one of those great big ones they put on Trains? Now that would be amazing... ![]() As a side issue, is a knackered horn an MOT Failure? I asked Carol, but she could not remember. ![]() |
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#58 |
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Yes it needs to work.
Get pair of stebel magnums, they do the trick.
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#59 |
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#60 |
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But 2 of them make children fall over, which is hilarious
![]() Up to you, I like relay solution. The stock wiring is prone to weakness when you pull a lot of current through it.
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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