Upgraded rear shock..

[Bibio]

the SV1k front and rear is good they just need fettled properly. trouble is the front end is not bling bling so people change them out for USD. the USD is neither better/worse than the RWU as it has almost identical cartridges inside them.

as for the rear shock i'm led to believe that the SV1k undertray is different to accommodate the piggyback rez.

Ok so I've fitted the the yss rear shock.. and k-tech linear front spring, 10w oil. Now need to play around with the rear shock.. I'm wondering what the preset settings are before I start playing around with it.. would it best for me to take it to a garage like Steve Jordans, who offer a ride in service

[DougieG]

Yes best 30 40 quid you can spend getting it set up for you

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Its £70 at the place nearest me

[DougieG]

Still worth it but maybe shop around for a bit cheaper

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[Bibio]

save your money. setting things up is easy (better with two people)

lift the rear till the wheel is off the ground then take a measurement from somewhere on the rear of the swingarm where the axle goes in and to somewhere on the tail bodywork (put a piece of tape somewhere and draw a line on it as a datum). write down the measurement with the wheel off the ground. take the bike off the support/stand and sit it upright giving the rear a little bounce. take another measurement using the same datums and write it down. take the second figure away from the first figure which now gives you the static sag. your static sag for the road should be between around the 10mm. if not then just wind the preload adjuster up or down till you reach the 10mm difference.

stick a cabletie round the one of the fork stanchions so it can slide up and down fairly easily but still stay at a given place and slide it down to the dust seal.

go for a ride then check the cabletie afterwords and adjust the fork preload adjusters depending on where the cabletie ends up. full compression of the forks is around 20mm from bottom of the lower yoke clamps, you want to be around another 10-15mm below this so an overall 30-35mm from the bottom of the yoke clamp.

keep an eye on your tyre wear for telltale signs of rebound. look at the directional rotation of your tyre then look at the groves (sipes) if the leading edge of the sipes is eroding you need to increase your rebound (turn adjuster more to H) if the leading edge is creating a lip you need to back off your rebound (turn the rebound adjuster to the S). only move the adjusters 1-2 clicks at a time.