2003 sv650 strong crank no start

[goodnight]

Recently picked up a 2003 sv650 with 6000 miles. I haven't been able to start it, but it cranks strong. Here are the facts:

Engine has fuel. Fuel pump runs for maybe 15-30 seconds before blowing the fuse. This is a secondary problem, still should start. Whole fuel system is brand new. When cranking you can smell fuel from exhaust (as long as few is unblown.)

Engine has air. No issue there.

Engine does not have spark. Neither coil has any current, zero. Both spark plugs are new, coils may be replaced next.

Starter cranks STRONGLY. Battery is brand new, in great shape.

Cluster has CHEC light on it. With key on, there is no red light, just CHEC light. Bike still cranks great. When attempting to put it in "dealer mode" there is no change. Cluster still just displays CHEC.

Fuses are all good (with the exception of intermittent fuel fuse.)

I've been trying my best to get this thing to start, but so far have had zero luck. Any help is appreciated and welcome!

[redtrummy]

Is the fuel pump shunting current from the ignition circuit? I would try and sort that first as it needs doing anyway and its a tangible problem. Be unlucky to have 2 coils gone.

[Seeker]

Originally Posted by goodnight

Neither coil has any current

Disclaimer: I may be wrong!

I thought that the coils should have battery voltage on them and were triggered by the ECU supplying the ground path (battery return) to trigger them (via the pick up coil in the stator assembly). Looking at the wiring diagram which seems to have an error, one side of each coil should have an Orange/White (O/Wh) wire.
In Suzuki world an orange wire with any coloured stripe is switched 12V, so 12V should be present with the key on. If you don't have this, this is where you should start to look.

It looks like the O/Wh is fed from the Stop switch which gets its power from another switched supply (O/B wire) which looks like it comes from the safety interlock cct.

That's exhausted my knowledge (didn't take long).

The coloured schematic I have shows an O/Wh wire on one coil and a B/O wire on the other but since they are connected to the same rail, I assume this is an error.


Edit - on some models (countries?) there's an anti-theft device, on gen1 it is/was a 100 ohm resistor in the ign switch. I'd heard that gen 2 had something in the loom but I was also told that that was not true. The anti theft won't stop the 12V to the coils.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQYrS6gZIuE

[goodnight]

The antitheft system I did plan on checking, so I'll poke around everything with a DMM and see what I can uncover.

[GeorgeRYoung]

I would have another close look at the Ignition fuse.

[goodnight]

The bike cranks and has fuel, how would it be the ignition fuse?

[GeorgeRYoung]

You're quite right. The +12V travels through the Ignition fuse, the sidestand relay and the kill switch. It gets to the starter button but not the coils. Maybe the problem is in the wiring to the coils.

[goodnight]

UPDATE!

The bike now runs, BUT only for a moment.

The problem was the previous owner wired the fuel pump wrong. This led to the fuel pump and lights working, but no communication to ECM, and hence no spark. Having fixed the wiring, the bike now starts – briefly.

If any throttle is applied, the bike immediately dies, if any throttle is applied while cranking, the bike won't start. When it does start, it idles for ~2 seconds. IF the idle adjustment is maxed out, then the bike can stay on as long as it remains over 7k RPM. Anything below and it immediately dies, and if idle adjustment is changed it also dies.

So, now I am at a loss. There is no codes, now I can get into dealer mode, and everything seems fine electronically.

[Seeker]

Sort of good news, I suppose. I have no definite idea - wild stabs in the dark: How old is the petrol? Air or vacuum leak? Do the secondary throttle valves cycle through their movement on ign on? Is it actually running on both cylinders?