Help, I've screwed up the bottom shock bolt

Glad I read this thread!

I've just taken delivery of a Nitron shock for my K5 and now I'm wondering whether to contact them and change the clevis to the threaded type. Mine has been supplied with a 56mm bolt as measured from the contact surface of the bolt head. With a washer under it that will come up short of that by about 1mm.

A very non scientific faff around offering up the bolt to the existing shock shows that there should be just enough clearance although it will be tight...

I suppose my question is how often is this a problem? Has anyone else suffered issues like this with a new Nitron?

I will phone them and have a chat but forewarned is forearmed. I'd like some unbiased info in advance.

As it goes I'm in no rush to get the shock fitted as I'm still waiting on a new undertray. I can wait for alternate parts if necessary.

It could be that the OP has saved a fellow FM from some pain! I hope that will be some consolation but I'm guessing not...

I had a humongously good ride today anyway. Gorgeous weather in Suffolk/Cambs and the roads backe from Addenbrookes and through Finchingfield are awesome. It's getting to my favourite season for riding. Warmish, dry but crisp air to feed the bike!

Thanks,

Mark

[yorkie_chris]

What a f*** about...

The washers on the dogbones shouldn't hurt much as long as:
-they're not dragging on the bearing outers
-they're not so thick they prevent the locking tabs on the nuts from engaging

Tell me about it Chris! Had to be me

Mark, it does make a difference knowing one of my ranting threads has helped, in whatever way, another orger.

Sounds like you got the right bolt first time anyhow, my first 2 bolts were way longer.

I'm temtped to say give it a bash first, but its up to you. I dont know how pointy's differ but as Lance pointed out, there ARE differences, and in this issue we are literally talking 1-2mm being the difference between working and not working.

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by hongman

still feels a bit stiff over a couple speed humps. Maybe need to fine tune the comp/rebound.

it will as the fast comp is set by valving. mine is the same and no way to change unless you change the stack but to be honest it only really bothers when you hit a pot hole, speed bump or bad rumble strips.

fast comp = sudden bumps (can only be changed by shim stack)
slow comp = chassis movement (bottom adjuster)
rebound = chassis movement (bottom adjuster)

as you can read there is no way of controlling the fast comp so messing with the comp/rebound will do nothing for it unless it's way out. all you are looking for in the rebound is to control the rate at which the rear is moving back to 'rest' if it is to slow (hard) the rear will not rise quick enough if to fast (soft) it will rise to fast and past its 'rest' point. compression is set at same time so its a give and take situation. sag should be sat a little over what 'racers' would have as you have to contend with bad tarmac. if there is not enough movement in the shock then it will either 'top out' over crests or 'bottom out' into troughs both will result in bad traction. 5mm static and 35mm rider and 40mm overall is what your aiming for. front sag is set by cable tie and your aiming for 7/8 overall travel in day to day riding which will leave you that 1/8 for emergency situations.

for road use your looking to use all the available suspension travel without topping or bottoming out and 1/8 left in reserve. oviously coming off crests and getting air should not be taken into consideration. remember if you set your suspension to hard and you it bad tarmac your bike will just hop, skip and jump if to soft the same applies but you wont feel it as its not being transferred threw the chassis. everything is a compromise and i prefer ever so slightly hard as it gives better handling but still lets the suspension do its work most of the time.

but like most times i usually talk bolloxx so do as you please.

Thanks bibs, as always

It's a special skill to speak about something technical in a way which a retard can understand!

Just need to sort my indicators out and I'm back on the road.

[yorkie_chris]

Harsh feeling can come from other places than just the compression side you'd intuitively think it was.

The same sort of logic that means tighening preload doens't make shock "harder".

Can be harsh due to spring, too little preload meaning bottoming out, too much preload meaning it tops out after the bump and gives you a smack, too little rebound meaning it smacks you after the bump.... etc.

How much do suspension places charge?

[yorkie_chris]

Learn to do it yourself

I plan to have a go myself, but all else failing, I wondered if getting it done at a shop is an expensive exercise!

Originally Posted by hongman

How much do suspension places charge?

Not sure how much they'd charge but I've had great service from MCT in Stowmarket.

They re-worked the fork internals on my SV and adjusted the rear shock which made a huge difference. I recall this coming in around £250-300 but that might have been an understatement to protect the guilty...

Mark