What have you tinkered with today?

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by Bibio

yup one of the reasons i dont like curvys is the joke plungers along with the fragile cable splitter. i've always found it best to take the carbs off.

It was the splitter that had failed, still I fired her up and all is good, back to normal.

[Bibio]

not so much a tinkered but ordered two new springs for the Nitron shock. i eventually found out that the spring rate on nitron springs are the last numbers and are in lb. after doing a bit of calculating on racetech i have ordered some lighter springs to mess about with.

me being a tight arz was reluctant to pay £70+pnp for a spring from Nitron so went hunting on the net. first up was the shock factory who i found out are in France who then said to phone Springcoil who i found out are the main makers of shock springs who then put me on to D Faulkner Springs. two springs including vat and pnp came to £68.85 for the exact same springs in black.

if you have the older "sport" Nitron shock with the gold collar its a 2.25" spring.

[dirtydog]

No bike tinkering recently but have done loads on the van and car the past couple of weeks

[proze]

Yesterday I tinkered with the GSX-R. Cleaned it, put a new screen on it and looked at it lovingly. Need to finish the SV this week!

[Bibio]

Very cheep Scottoiler high capacity reservoir.

I like my Scottoiler but hated filling the RMV and even more so if I ran out of oil and had to prime it again so I bought a Scottoiler magnum HCR a few years back but since removed it as it was too heavy for the plastic rear mudguard on the SV.

I needed something more compact that I could “stow” somewhere on the bike preferably under the seat away from the British weather. Well I put my noggin to work a few months ago and came up with a better and cheaper solution using a bottle of Scottoiler oil. After testing for a few runs it became apparent it did not work too well and needed modified.

The problem I encountered with the first prototype was that the delivery tubing would reverse siphon the oil back into the bottle the moment the bike was turned off (RMV valve shut), in turn it took more time to fill the delivery tube with oil than what was being used by the RMV so the RMV would slowly empty during use instead of the oil being replenished. I also had the same problem with the Scottoiler magnum HCR but not as bad.

My solution was to use a check valve which stops the reverse siphoning of the oil back into the bottle and emptying the feed tube so the moment a drip of oil is used by the RMV it now gets replenished as the feed tube from the bottle is always full.

By dumb luck the check valve I used has just enough weight in it to stop forward siphon which would otherwise flood the RMV and spill oil everywhere. It was a skinflint chance that has worked perfect. The check valve is also not sprung so takes very little pressure to activate.

I have not tried any other check valve and I see no need to change the one I use, its also cheep.

How much will it cost?
This depends on if you have some tubing left after fitting your Scottoiler, so basically the price of two check valves and your time + tools (most people have the tools).
Even if you have to buy some 3x6mm tubing its about 99p a mtr from ebay. a 5mm drill bit again a cheep one will be about 99p on ebay. its still going to come under £5 including the valves. I’m not counting the price of a bottle of oil as you need to use it in daily use and you also get a 250ml one free in the Scottoiler kit.

You can use any size of Scottoiler oil bottle as the filling and priming spouts are all the same size.

What you will need:
1 bottle of Scottoiler oil (choose your size)
1 Scottoiler filling and priming spout (usually comes free with the bottle of oil)
1 length of Scottoiler delivery tubing 500mm is plenty (you usually have some left over from fitting the Scottoiler)
2 check valves from ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Non-Retur...IAAOSw0w9YVW4C
maybe some superglue

Tools you will need:
5mm drill bit.
Drill.
Scissors, a sharp knife or Stanley knife (for cutting the tube).
Kettle.
Mug.

Making the Rez:


Gather all your parts together.

Boil a kettle of water then fill a mug with the boiling water. If connectors are hard to remove/assemble then place them in the mug of boiling water to help soften the tubing/fittings. You only need to immerse the connector end and not the whole item.


Remove the tubing, cap and top fitting from the filling and priming tube.


Drill a 5mm hole at the base end of the spout on the cap then clean any plastic swarf away from the inside.


Remove the rubber priming plug and connector from the breather tube.


Cut the breather tube about 1/4-1/3 down from the black tube.


Insert one of the check valves with the inner red part of the wedge pointing away from the black tube then connect the other piece of tube you cut off to the other end of the check valve.


Attach the delivery tubing to both ends of the other check valve.


Look at the check valve for the wedge shape of the inner red part then cut the delivery tubing at a 45deg angle about 15-20mm from the outlet at the opposite end of the wedge.


Feed the long end of the delivery tubing threw the 5mm hole you drilled in the cap (its tight but it does go threw, it needs to be tight) then place it against the bottle of oil to determine the correct length of tube you need (for the 500ml bottle its 210mm from the base of the cap spout). The small delivery tubing with the 45deg on the check valve should touch the bottom of the bottle when the cap is on.


Push the breather tube on to the top of the filling and priming spout. Its best once in place to put a dab of superglue at the joint as I have found the tube comes off too easily.


If all has gone well you should have the above.

Installing on your bike:

Find a suitable place for the bottle of oil on your bike and not higher than the Scottoiler RMV. Place the adapted filling and priming cap approximately where it will end up then cut the delivery tube leaving enough length for easy maintenance.

Sheer luck on the pointy is that a 500ml bottle fits just nicely under the rear seat with the RMV at the other side. If you use the clamp type fitting for the RMV and bend the L bracket with the bolt on it mr Suzuki has already put a nice convenient hole there to attach it.


Once the tube is cut place the connector from the breather tube onto the end of the tube.

Remove oil bottle from the bike then remove the cap and protective film from the bottle of oil and put the modified filling and priming spout on then Install the bottle and modified filling and priming spout back on the bike.


Insert the breather tube connector onto the rubber priming plug.


Squeeze the bottle so oil travels up the tube and into the RMV to prime.

You now have a very high capacity reservoir for your Scottoiler. The magnum HCR is 350ml and this one is a full bottle (of your choice).

To replace the oil all you do is buy a new bottle of Scottoiler oil and swap the bottles over.

Problems you might encounter:
Leaky fittings. If this happens then take apart and clean off the oil, assemble again then just put a dab of superglue at the joints and allow to set.

How it works:
For every drip of oil that is let out of the main RMV onto your chain the RMV sucks another drip into it from the bottle keeping the RVM topped up.

Why use two check valves?
The check valve in the bottle is to stop the reverse siphon of oil and the check valve on the breather tube is there to insure that no oil can escape from the breather tube with the motion of the bike in use (oil sloshing about in the bottle).

I have not tested having the RMV lower than the bottle but I would hazard a guess it would forward siphon.

Disclaimer, use at your own risk and I will not be held responsible for any accident, injury or damage to anything in the making or use of the above design.

BEWARE:
just checked the forward siphon on the "Very cheep Scottoiler high capacity reservoir" if the RMV is lower than the bottle and yes it does forward siphon.

[Craig380]

Great explanation there, Bibio. Do you have a dual-nozzle oiler, i.e. it oils both sides of the chain?

This is a stupid question but it's puzzled me for a while: how do the single-nozzle versions work with o-ring chains? How does the lube get from the nozzle side of the chain to the other, when the o-rings stop the oil getting into the pins & rollers?

[admin]

Originally Posted by Bibio

Very cheep Scottoiler high capacity reservoir.

I like my Scottoiler but hated filling the RMV and even more so if I ran out of oil and had to prime it again so I bought a Scottoiler magnum HCR a few years back but since removed it as it was too heavy for the plastic rear mudguard on the SV.

I needed something more compact that I could “stow” somewhere on the bike preferably under the seat away from the British weather. Well I put my noggin to work a few months ago and came up with a better and cheaper solution using a bottle of Scottoiler oil. After testing for a few runs it became apparent it did not work too well and needed modified.

The problem I encountered with the first prototype was that the delivery tubing would reverse siphon the oil back into the bottle the moment the bike was turned off (RMV valve shut), in turn it took more time to fill the delivery tube with oil than what was being used by the RMV so the RMV would slowly empty during use instead of the oil being replenished. I also had the same problem with the Scottoiler magnum HCR but not as bad.

My solution was to use a check valve which stops the reverse siphoning of the oil back into the bottle and emptying the feed tube so the moment a drip of oil is used by the RMV it now gets replenished as the feed tube from the bottle is always full.

By dumb luck the check valve I used has just enough weight in it to stop forward siphon which would otherwise flood the RMV and spill oil everywhere. It was a skinflint chance that has worked perfect. The check valve is also not sprung so takes very little pressure to activate.

I have not tried any other check valve and I see no need to change the one I use, its also cheep.

How much will it cost?
This depends on if you have some tubing left after fitting your Scottoiler, so basically the price of two check valves and your time + tools (most people have the tools).
Even if you have to buy some 3x6mm tubing its about 99p a mtr from ebay. a 5mm drill bit again a cheep one will be about 99p on ebay. its still going to come under £5 including the valves. I’m not counting the price of a bottle of oil as you need to use it in daily use and you also get a 250ml one free in the Scottoiler kit.

You can use any size of Scottoiler oil bottle as the filling and priming spouts are all the same size.

What you will need:
1 bottle of Scottoiler oil (choose your size)
1 Scottoiler filling and priming spout (usually comes free with the bottle of oil)
1 length of Scottoiler delivery tubing 500mm is plenty (you usually have some left over from fitting the Scottoiler)
2 check valves from ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Non-Retur...IAAOSw0w9YVW4C
maybe some superglue

Tools you will need:
5mm drill bit.
Drill.
Scissors, a sharp knife or Stanley knife (for cutting the tube).
Kettle.
Mug.

Making the Rez:


Gather all your parts together.

Boil a kettle of water then fill a mug with the boiling water. If connectors are hard to remove/assemble then place them in the mug of boiling water to help soften the tubing/fittings. You only need to immerse the connector end and not the whole item.


Remove the tubing, cap and top fitting from the filling and priming tube.


Drill a 5mm hole at the base end of the spout on the cap then clean any plastic swarf away from the inside.


Remove the rubber priming plug and connector from the breather tube.


Cut the breather tube about 1/4-1/3 down from the black tube.


Insert one of the check valves with the inner red part of the wedge pointing away from the black tube then connect the other piece of tube you cut off to the other end of the check valve.


Attach the delivery tubing to both ends of the other check valve.


Look at the check valve for the wedge shape of the inner red part then cut the delivery tubing at a 45deg angle about 15-20mm from the outlet at the opposite end of the wedge.


Feed the long end of the delivery tubing threw the 5mm hole you drilled in the cap (its tight but it does go threw, it needs to be tight) then place it against the bottle of oil to determine the correct length of tube you need (for the 500ml bottle its 210mm from the base of the cap spout). The small delivery tubing with the 45deg on the check valve should touch the bottom of the bottle when the cap is on.


Push the breather tube on to the top of the filling and priming spout. Its best once in place to put a dab of superglue at the joint as I have found the tube comes off too easily.


If all has gone well you should have the above.

Installing on your bike:

Find a suitable place for the bottle of oil on your bike and not higher than the Scottoiler RMV. Place the adapted filling and priming cap approximately where it will end up then cut the delivery tube leaving enough length for easy maintenance.

Sheer luck on the pointy is that a 500ml bottle fits just nicely under the rear seat with the RMV at the other side. If you use the clamp type fitting for the RMV and bend the L bracket with the bolt on it mr Suzuki has already put a nice convenient hole there to attach it.


Once the tube is cut place the connector from the breather tube onto the end of the tube.

Remove oil bottle from the bike then remove the cap and protective film from the bottle of oil and put the modified filling and priming spout on then Install the bottle and modified filling and priming spout back on the bike.


Insert the breather tube connector onto the rubber priming plug.


Squeeze the bottle so oil travels up the tube and into the RMV to prime.

You now have a very high capacity reservoir for your Scottoiler. The magnum HCR is 350ml and this one is a full bottle (of your choice).

To replace the oil all you do is buy a new bottle of Scottoiler oil and swap the bottles over.

Problems you might encounter:
Leaky fittings. If this happens then take apart and clean off the oil, assemble again then just put a dab of superglue at the joints and allow to set.

How it works:
For every drip of oil that is let out of the main RMV onto your chain the RMV sucks another drip into it from the bottle keeping the RVM topped up.

Why use two check valves?
The check valve in the bottle is to stop the reverse siphon of oil and the check valve on the breather tube is there to insure that no oil can escape from the breather tube with the motion of the bike in use (oil sloshing about in the bottle).

I have not tested having the RMV lower than the bottle but I would hazard a guess it would forward siphon.

Disclaimer, use at your own risk and I will not be held responsible for any accident, injury or damage to anything in the making or use of the above design.

Nice write up. I tried something similar on my bike a couple of years ago but it didn't work. Mind you I had no check valves in mine. I might have to revisit this.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[garynortheast]

Excellent tutorial there Bibs.

[proze]

Originally Posted by Seeker

You should put the reservoir in the seat cushion then, with each bump, you'll lube the chain

With the roads here in Cambs I'd make an oil-slick!

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by Craig380

Great explanation there, Bibio. Do you have a dual-nozzle oiler, i.e. it oils both sides of the chain?

This is a stupid question but it's puzzled me for a while: how do the single-nozzle versions work with o-ring chains? How does the lube get from the nozzle side of the chain to the other, when the o-rings stop the oil getting into the pins & rollers?

no i dont have a dual nozzle fitted.

an o'ring chain is "sealed for life" with grease on the link pins. no amount of spraying lube or oil will usually pass the o'rings, you dont want it to as it will "wash out" the thick grease and replace with thin oil.

the absolute worst thing you can do is jet wash a chain as it forces water past the o'rings and removes the grease. if your going to clean a chain then use some paraffin on a rag and wipe the chain, if you are really anal and want to clean between the plates then use a soft brush and some oil.

when you oil an o'ring chain your just lubing the rollers between the plates to stop wear/friction between the rollers and sprocket faces. this is why a single feed from a Scottoiler works just fine as long as you place the output nozzle 1-2mm away on the face of the sprocket as high up away from the chain as you can get it. centrifugal forces then push the oil on the face of the sprocket outwards and onto the rollers/sprocket teeth. the reason people end up with oil everywhere using a Scottoiler is that they try to drip feed the oil as close as possible to the chain and have their drip rate set too high. you dont want to oil the o'ring.