What have you tinkered with today?

[DarrenSV650S]

The cans are bolted solid to the subframe. The best I could do with that is maybe put some rubber grommits. Don't know if that would help. There isn't really room for a flexi between the cat and the splitter. Arrow don't want to know because I didn't buy it directly from them.

This is the brace that was added in

Originally Posted by DarrenSV650S

The cans are bolted solid to the subframe. The best I could do with that is maybe put some rubber grommits. Don't know if that would help. There isn't really room for a flexi between the cat and the splitter. Arrow don't want to know because I didn't buy it directly from them.

This is the brace that was added in

You might try changing its harmonic frequency by adding some weight. The unsupported bit probably only weighs a few pounds, so if you added perhaps a pound of something quite dense (like perhaps wrapping it with lead wire) it should make the element’s harmonic frequency significantly lower, and move it away from say 100 Hz (which would be the primary frequency of the motor running at 6,000 RPM).
It might work, and would be a cheap fix. Another way of achieving the same would be to make the element more (as you have with the brace) or less (as you suggest with rubber grommets) rigid - but that having failed once adding some mass might be worth trying.
Alan


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[Adam Ef]

I'd definitely fit some grommets or similar to isolate some of the vibration.






+ What size bolts are the cans fixed with? I have some grommets left over from my belly pan refurb that fit m6 bolts I think. Only needed 4 and they came as a pack of 10 from China. I can put a couple in the post if any use for you to try?

[DarrenSV650S]

I think they are M8 or M10. I'll need to check.

Cheers guys

[Seeker]

On the high pipe Street Triple, Triumph use split rubber bushes trapped by two flanges with a bolt running through to stop (or reduce vibration) at the cat and the same arrangement at the silencers themselves.: Parts 10,19,20 on this drawing:-

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts...exhaust-system

[Bibio]

Daz, thats not going to work. you need a triangle plate welded over the whole area that is cracking. this will make sure that the area will move as one instead of flexing.

[admin]

Lawnmower in bits. It's electric and the on/off switch has given up the ghost. I can't complain as i bought it in 1991.

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[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by admin

Lawnmower in bits. It's electric and the on/off switch has given up the ghost. I can't complain as i bought it in 1991.

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Can't you fit your own switch?

[admin]

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff

Can't you fit your own switch?

That's the plan. It won't have the double touch safety interlock but I'm past caring.

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[Sir Trev]

Similar issue to Admin but in my case it's the scarifier. Dug it out of the shed and got ready for the slog of emptying the damn thing every ten seconds and filling/lugging 30-odd rubble sacks to the shed before a run to the dump next weekend and... it won't spin over. Off to the garage and strip it down. Full of grass under the covers but the motor is fine after a good vacuum but the scarifying shaft is really stiff. Trial and error strip down later and the output shaft is in the vice complete with the seized bearing. It turned a bit with mole grips attached after a dose of penetrating fluid but it's clearly got to be replaced. Drifted it off with a hammer/screwdriver and off to the interwebs.

6200-2Z, really common size it seems as dozens of suppliers have it. But, if I get it from a store that sells garden machinery spares it is about £25 - from a bearing factor about £3. I wonder which one I'll use. Tough decision eh?

Much cheaper than buying a new scarifier and it does me good to get the tools out and swear a bit in the garage every now and then.